Houseplant · Moraceae

Ficus Audrey

Ficus benghalensis

Give it bright indirect light and steady, careful watering, and this banyan fig settles into one easy, good-looking houseplant.

Light

Bright indirect

Warmth

65–⁠80°F · 18–⁠27°C

Hardiness

USDA 10–⁠12

Mature size

100 ft · 30.5 m

Toxic to cats, dogs, horses & more
Ficus Audrey

Overview

Ficus Audrey is the houseplant face of Ficus benghalensis, the banyan fig that stands as the national tree of India. Indoors it keeps a tidy upright shape with a pale, almost chalky trunk and soft green leaves marked by deep veins. It earns its reputation as an easy fig, more forgiving and less dramatic than the fussy fiddle-leaf it often shares a shelf with.

Left to grow wild in a frost-free climate, this same species is a giant. It starts life as an epiphyte perched on another tree, then sends down aerial roots that thicken into trunks until a single plant becomes a small grove. Your potted Audrey will never do that. Kept in a container it holds at roughly 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) and skips the aerial roots entirely.

What it asks for is consistency. Bright indirect light, water once the top of the soil dries, and a spot it can stay in without being shuffled around keep it looking its best. Get the rhythm right and it rewards you with steady new leaves; get sloppy with the watering and it sulks, usually by dropping leaves.

Care

The short version: bright indirect light, water only when the top 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) of soil go dry, keep the air on the humid side, and leave the plant in one settled spot rather than moving it around.

Light

Give it bright, indirect light near a window where the sun doesn't hit the leaves head-on. It will take some direct sun or a bit of shade, but too little light leaves it sparse and leggy with leaves that drop.

Water

Water only when the top 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) of soil feel dry, then let the excess drain away and tip out whatever collects in the saucer. Ease off through winter when growth slows. Soggy roots are the fastest way to kill this plant.

Soil

Plant it in a well-drained potting mix, ideally one cut with perlite so water moves through freely. It isn't fussy about pH and handles anything from 6.0 to 8.0, so the drainage matters far more than the chemistry.

Temperature

Ordinary room warmth suits it, somewhere around 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Keep it away from cold drafts and from the hot, dry blast of heating and AC vents, both of which trigger leaf drop.

Humidity

This fig likes the air on the humid side, around 50% to 80%. Dry indoor air, especially in winter, leaves the foliage cracking at the edges, so group plants together or run a humidifier if your rooms run dry.

Feeding

Feed monthly through spring and summer with a liquid houseplant fertilizer, then stop entirely over winter while the plant rests. Pale new leaves are the cue that it's hungry for a little nitrogen.

Pruning

It takes pruning well, so cut it back to shape it or hold its size whenever you like. The catch is the irritant milky latex that weeps from every cut, so wear gloves and keep the sap off your skin and out of your eyes.

Repotting

Move it up a pot size in late winter or early spring, and don't rush it, since it's content sitting a little root-bound. Roots creeping out the drainage holes, circling the rootball, or water rushing straight through tell you it's time.

Size & spacing

As a houseplant Audrey holds at about 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) tall, a far cry from the roughly 100-foot (30 m) tree the species becomes in the wild. Give it enough room that air can move around the leaves and it won't crowd whatever shares its shelf.

Troubleshooting

Most Ficus Audrey trouble starts with watering or a change the plant didn't like, and it shows up first in the leaves. Read the early signs and you can fix things before a few dropped leaves turn into a bare stem. Match what you see below, then act while it still helps.

Severe

Wilting, yellowing, and soft mushy roots

This is root rot, and it sets in when the roots sit wet for too long with nowhere to drain. Tip the plant out and look for brown, mushy roots that smell sour. Trim the dead roots away, repot into a fresh, fast-draining mix, and from then on let the soil surface dry before you water and keep the saucer empty.

Fix:

  • Reduce watering
  • Repot into a well-drained mix and trim away rotted roots
  • Ensure the pot drains freely and empty saucers
Setback

Leaves suddenly dropping all at once

A fig that sheds leaves is usually reacting to a change it didn't like, whether that's a soggy pot, a cold draft, or simply being moved across the room. Overwatering is the most common cause, so check the soil first and let the top few centimeters dry out before you water again. Settle the plant into one bright, draft-free spot and stop shuffling it around, and the new growth comes back steady.

Fix:

  • Stabilize conditions: keep in bright indirect light, away from heating/AC vents and cold drafts
  • Water only when the top few cm of soil dry; never leave the pot in standing water
  • Resume light feeding in the growing season if foliage is pale (nitrogen)
Setback

Stippled or sticky leaves with webbing or bumps

Fine speckling, sticky residue, or tiny bumps on the stems mean pests have moved in, most often spider mites, scale, or mealybugs, with fungus gnats hanging around damp soil. Wipe the leaves down and rinse the bugs off, then treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil and repeat as the label directs. Letting the soil surface dry between waterings discourages the gnats.

Fix:

  • Wash foliage and rinse off pests
  • Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil per label
  • Let the soil surface dry to discourage fungus gnats
Cosmetic

Brown and yellow spots forming on the leaves

Spots on the foliage usually trace back to how the air and water are moving around the plant. Wet, spreading marks point to stale air and too much moisture, while dry, light-brown patches mean the plant ran short of water. Open up the airflow, keep water off the leaves, and water on a steady rhythm.

Fix:

  • Improve air circulation and avoid wetting foliage
  • Water consistently and discard excess water
Cosmetic

Leaves cracking or crisping at the edges

Dry indoor air is the culprit here, and it shows up most in winter when the heat is running. Group your plants together, run a humidifier, or set the pot on a pebble tray to lift the humidity toward 50% to 80%. Keep the plant clear of heating vents, which dry the leaves faster than anything else.

Fix:

  • Raise humidity (group plants, use a humidifier or pebble tray)
  • Keep away from heating vents
Cosmetic

Skin irritation after handling cut stems

The milky latex sap carries ficin and psoralen, and it can leave your skin red and irritated where it touches. The reaction follows pruning or snapping a stem, so it's easy to trace. Wash the area with soap and water right away, and wear gloves any time you cut the plant or take a cutting.

Fix:

  • Wash skin with soap and water after contact
  • Wear gloves when pruning or taking cuttings

Toxicity

This is not a plant to eat or to leave within reach of a chewing pet. The leaves and the milky sap carry ficin and psoralen, which irritate the mouth, stomach, and skin in cats, dogs, and people alike. The reaction is usually mild rather than dangerous, but no part of the plant is safe to nibble, so keep it clear of pets and children and wear gloves when you prune.

Toxic to

Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People

Cats Mild

A cat that chews the leaves or sap usually drools and may vomit, with some mouth and stomach irritation. The trouble is real but mild, and most cats settle once they leave the plant alone.

Dogs Mild

Expect drooling and an upset stomach if a dog bites into a stem or leaf, sometimes with vomiting. The same sap can redden the skin around the mouth on contact.

Horses Mild

The milky sap irritates a horse's mouth and gut, bringing on drooling and digestive upset. Skin contact with the latex can leave the muzzle sore.

Rabbits Caution

The same ficin and psoralen that bother cats and dogs make the leaves a poor choice for a rabbit. Keep the plant out of reach rather than risk a nibble.

Livestock Caution

Grazing animals that get into the foliage can pick up the same mouth and stomach irritation the sap causes in other mammals. Fence it off where stock can browse.

Birds Caution

There's no safe-to-eat part here, and the irritant sap means a curious bird is better kept well clear of the leaves and cut stems.

People Caution

No part of this plant is meant to be eaten, and the latex sap can irritate skin on contact, so wear gloves when you prune. Keep children from chewing the leaves, which can leave the mouth sore.

The milky latex sap can irritate skin; wear gloves when pruning or taking cuttings

Helpline numbers

United States

ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)

Poison Control: (800) 222-1222

United Kingdom

Animal PoisonLine: 01202 509000 (fee applies)

NHS: 111

Australia

Animal Poisons Helpline: 1300 869 738

Poisons Information Centre: 13 11 26

Canada

Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669

Varieties

Ficus Audrey is sold under one main name, but you may run across a close relative in the houseplant trade. These are the two worth knowing apart.

'Audrey'

This is the compact houseplant form sold as Ficus Audrey, staying around 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) with a pale, whitish trunk and deeply veined green leaves, and it's an easy one to grow.

Chandelier Happiness

An upright selection that grows a little taller, reaching roughly 2 to 4 feet, with medium-green oval leaves.

How to propagate

You can make new plants from an Audrey you already own, though it takes a bit more patience than rooting an easy trailing plant. Either method means cutting into stems that bleed irritant sap, so gloves are not optional.

Air layeringModerate

Any season (genus-level, Clemson); NC State also lists air layering for F. benghalensis · Unknown

Air layering is the more reliable way to make a new plant, and figs take to it at any time of year. You wound a section of stem, wrap it in damp moss until roots form, then cut the rooted piece free. The cut tissue weeps irritant latex, so wear gloves through the whole job.

Stem cuttingsModerate

Best taken in summer (genus-level, Clemson); NC State lists stem cuttings for the species · Unknown

You can also root a stem cutting, and summer is the best time to take one while the plant is growing strongly. Snip a healthy stem and pot it up to root. The cut end oozes milky latex that stings the skin, so keep your gloves on while you work.

Myths

Myth

Ficus Audrey is a safe, non-toxic houseplant for cats and dogs.

Reality

It isn't. The ASPCA lists the genus Ficus as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses through its ficin and psoralen, and NC State flags this species as poisonous to cats, dogs, and people by way of its leaves and sap. Keep it out of reach of pets and children, and treat any chewed leaf as a reason to call the vet.

Myth

Like many houseplants, its irritant compound is calcium oxalate.

Reality

That's the wrong culprit. The irritation comes from the milky latex sap, which carries a proteolytic enzyme called ficin along with psoralen, not the calcium oxalate crystals found in plants like pothos or dieffenbachia.

Myth

It's just a small tabletop plant, and those giant banyans with aerial roots are a different species.

Reality

It's the very same plant, Ficus benghalensis, the national tree of India. Kept indoors as Audrey it stays around 1 to 2 feet and never forms aerial roots, but in the wild it's a strangling fig that starts life as an epiphyte, climbs to roughly 100 feet, and drops prop roots that thicken into trunks.

Sources