Houseplant · Arecaceae
Kentia Palm
Howea forsteriana
Give it bright, indirect light and steady water, and the kentia palm brings a slow, easy elegance to any room.
Bright indirect
Every 7–14 days
61–81°F · 16–27°C
USDA 9–11
Overview
The kentia palm comes from Lord Howe Island off the coast of Australia, where it grows wild into a tall, single-trunked tree. Indoors it has been a favorite for well over a century, prized for the way its arching, dark green fronds soften a corner. It earns its keep as one of the most forgiving palms you can keep inside.
What sets it apart is patience and tolerance. It grows slowly, so it holds its shape for years, and it puts up with the low light and dry air that defeat fussier palms. That easygoing nature is why you see it in lobbies and living rooms alike.
There is one quirk worth knowing. A kentia palm has a single growing point and never branches, so it can't bounce back from a cut crown the way many houseplants do. Treat the top of the plant gently and it will reward you for a long time.
Care
The short version: bright, indirect light, water once the top of the mix dries, and warmth between 61°F and 81°F (16°C to 27°C). Feed lightly in the growing season, leave it alone in winter, and never cut the growing tip.
Light
The kentia palm does best in bright, indirect light, but its real gift is tolerance. It holds up in medium light, low light, and even full shade, which is why it survives the dim corners that kill most palms. Keep it out of harsh direct sun, which scorches the fronds.
Water
Let the top inch or so of mix dry out before you water again, then water thoroughly. Through the warm growing season it drinks freely, but in winter ease right off and water only once the mix has dried. Soggy, waterlogged soil is the fastest way to rot the roots.
Soil
Plant it in a porous, well-drained potting mix with plenty of organic matter worked in. It isn't picky about soil and handles sand, loam, or clay, along with a pH anywhere from 6.1 to 7.5 across the slightly acidic to slightly alkaline range.
Temperature
Ordinary room warmth suits it, ideally 61°F to 81°F (16°C to 27°C). Keep it away from cold drafts and chilly windows in winter, since it has no frost tolerance indoors.
Humidity
Average household humidity is enough, so there's no number to fret over. That said, dry winter air invites spider mites, so the odd misting or a spot away from a hot radiator helps keep the fronds clean.
Feeding
Feed only during the spring and summer growing season, using a slow-release palm fertilizer such as a 12-4-12 or 8-2-12 blend two or three times a year. Skip feeding in autumn and winter when growth slows to a crawl.
Pruning
Pruning is mostly hands-off. Cut away only the fully dead, brown fronds at the base and leave the rest alone. Never cut the single crown or growing tip, because a solitary palm cannot regrow from a damaged point.
Repotting
This palm likes its roots snug and resents disturbance, so repot only every two or three years and only once roots have filled the pot. Signs it's ready include roots circling inside, poking out the drainage holes, or water running straight through with little soaked up.
Size & spacing
Indoors a kentia palm reaches 4 to 10 feet (1.2 to 3 m) tall over many years and spreads its fronds 3 to 6 feet (90 to 180 cm) wide. Give it floor space to arch out without crowding a wall or window.
Troubleshooting
A kentia palm rarely gives much trouble, and most of what does go wrong shows up in the fronds. Brown tips and a dusting of spider mites are the two you'll meet most. Read the signs early and the fix is usually simple.
Pale speckling and fine webbing across the fronds
Fine yellow stippling with a hint of webbing on the undersides points to spider mites, which thrive when indoor air turns hot and dry. Wash the foliage to knock the mites off, then raise the humidity around the plant. If they hang on, treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil and repeat until the fronds come clean.
Fix:
- Rinse or wash the foliage to physically remove mites
- Raise local humidity and avoid hot, dry placement
- Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil per label directions, repeating as needed
Brown, crispy tips along the edges of the fronds
Brown tips usually mean the air is too dry or the plant went thirsty between waterings, though a buildup of fertilizer salts in the mix can scorch them just as easily. Keep watering steady through the growing season and flush the pot with clear water now and then to wash out the salts. Trim only the dead brown tissue, leaving a hair of brown behind so you don't cut into living green.
Fix:
- Maintain even moisture during active growth and water before the mix fully dries out
- Leach the pot periodically by flushing with clear water to remove accumulated salts
- Reduce or correct fertilizer rate
- Trim only the dead brown tissue, leaving a thin margin of brown rather than cutting into green tissue
Toxicity
Good news for a home with pets or small children: the kentia palm is non-toxic across the board. The ASPCA lists it as safe for cats and dogs, and no part of the plant carries a poison that would harm other animals or people. A chewed frond might cause a little stomach upset, but nothing worse.
Safe for
People · Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds
Cats None
The ASPCA lists the kentia palm as non-toxic to cats, so a nibbled frond won't poison them. A cat that eats a lot of any leaf may bring it back up, but the plant itself carries no toxin.
Dogs None
Dogs are in the clear here too, with the ASPCA listing the plant as non-toxic. There's nothing to worry about beyond the mild stomach upset any dog might get from chewing greenery.
Horses Safe
No toxic compounds are known in this palm, so it poses no poisoning risk to horses.
Rabbits Safe
The fronds hold nothing harmful to rabbits, though a houseplant is best kept as decor rather than forage.
Livestock Safe
Cattle, goats, and sheep can graze near it without any toxic effect from the leaves.
Birds Safe
The plant is safe around pet birds and carries no toxin, so a curious beak does no harm.
People Safe
The kentia palm is harmless to people. It's a grown ornamental rather than something to eat, but contact and the odd accidental taste carry no risk.
Varieties
The kentia palm you buy is almost always the straight species. There's really just one to know.
Howea forsteriana (species)
The true kentia palm carries a slender trunk and an arching crown of dark green, feather-shaped fronds that hang flatter than those of its more curved cousin, Howea belmoreana.
How to propagate
Multiplying a kentia palm is the one demanding part of growing it. Seed is the only route, and it asks for warmth and a great deal of waiting.
SeedDemanding
Sow fresh seed in warm conditions · Germination is slow and erratic, ranging from about three months to several years
Seed is the only real way to start a kentia palm, and it tests your patience. Sow fresh seed in warm conditions and wait, because germination is slow and scattered, taking anywhere from three months to several years. This is a solitary palm that can't be divided, so the clustered trunks you see for sale are several seedlings grown up together rather than one clump you can pull apart.
Myths
A multi-stemmed kentia palm in a pot can be split into separate single-trunk plants by division.
Howea forsteriana grows as a solitary palm and is raised from seed, never by splitting. The several trunks you see in one pot are just individual seedlings planted together for a fuller look, so pulling them apart only injures each one without giving you new plants.