Houseplant · Begoniaceae
Angel Wing Begonia
Begonia coccinea
Give it bright light and a regular pinch, and the angel wing begonia rewards you with silver-spotted leaves and dangling red flowers.
Bright indirect
50–86°F · 10–30°C
USDA 10–11
1–3 ft · 0.3–0.9 m
Overview
The angel wing begonia earns its name from the lopsided, wing-shaped leaves that line its tall canes, many of them flecked with silver. It belongs to the cane-type begonias, a group of upright, bamboo-stemmed plants from the forests of Brazil, and it has been a favorite indoor plant for well over a century.
Grown well, it does two things at once. The foliage carries it through the year, and in the warm months it hangs pendulous clusters of red or pink flowers from the leaf joints. It grows fast and reaches 1 to 3 feet indoors, so it fills a bright corner quickly.
It's an easy plant that asks for a little attention to stay handsome. Bright light, steady but never soggy moisture, and a regular pinch keep it full and flowering. Skip the pinching and it climbs tall and bare at the base, all leaves at the top and naked stem below.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light with a little morning sun, soil kept evenly moist but never wet, warmth above 50°F (10°C), high humidity, and a regular pinch to keep it bushy.
Light
Give it bright indirect light with a little direct morning sun, like an east-facing window. It takes some partial shade, but harsh afternoon sun scorches the leaves while too little light leaves it stretched and sparse.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist and let only the surface dry between waterings, watering just enough to keep the leaves crisp. Ease off through winter, and never let the pot sit in water, since wet soil rots the roots and stems fast.
Soil
Plant in a loose, humus-rich potting mix that drains freely. A pH anywhere from 5.5 to 7.5 works, on the acidic to neutral side, and good drainage matters more than the exact number.
Temperature
It's happiest between 50°F and 86°F (10°C to 30°C) and isn't frost hardy at all. A cold draft below 50°F makes the leaves yellow and drop, so keep it clear of chilly windows in winter.
Humidity
This plant likes high humidity, more than most rooms offer in winter. Group it with other plants or set it on a pebble tray, but keep the air moving so damp, still conditions don't bring on mildew.
Feeding
While it's in full growth from spring through summer, feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength every other watering, so roughly every couple of weeks. Stop feeding in the darker, slower months.
Pruning
Pinch the branch tips early and often to force side branches and keep the plant bushy rather than leggy. Once it's as full as you want, stop pinching and let it set flowers.
Repotting
Repot every 1 to 2 years, or sooner once roots push through the drainage holes, growth stalls, or water runs straight through. Move up just one pot size into fresh, well-drained mix.
Size & spacing
Indoors it grows fast to about 1 to 3 feet (30 to 91 cm) tall and spreads 1 to 2 feet (30 to 61 cm) wide. Give it room and a little airflow so the leaves dry off and mildew stays away.
Troubleshooting
Most begonia trouble traces back to water, light, or air. Too much water rots the base, too little light stretches the canes, and stale air invites mildew. Match what you see below, then fix the cause before it spreads.
Soft, blackened stem bases and a collapsing plant
This is root and stem rot, almost always from soil that stays too wet, and cool damp air can add botrytis on top. Once the base turns soft and the roots go dark and slimy, stop watering and let everything dry out. Cut away the rotted tissue, take healthy tip cuttings to save the plant, and repot into fresh, fast-draining mix.
Fix:
- Withhold water and allow the soil to dry
- Cut away rotted tissue and take healthy tip cuttings to start a fresh plant if rot is advanced
- Repot into fresh, well-drained mix with adequate drainage
Dusty white film on the leaves
That powdery white coating is powdery mildew, a fungus that takes hold in still, humid air. Open up the air around the plant, pull off the worst leaves, and keep water off the foliage. Bringing the humidity down a notch slows it before it spreads.
Fix:
- Improve air circulation around the plant
- Remove and discard affected foliage
- Avoid wetting the foliage and reduce ambient humidity around the plant
Yellowing leaves that wilt and fall
Soggy soil is the usual cause, and overwatering drives most of these cases, though a cold draft below 50°F (10°C) brings on the same droop. Let the surface dry between waterings, never leave the pot standing in water, and move it away from chilly spots. Keep it in the 50°F to 86°F (10°C to 30°C) range and cut back on water through winter.
Fix:
- Let the soil surface dry between waterings and never let the pot sit in standing water
- Move the plant away from cold drafts and keep it above 50°F (10°C)
- Ensure the pot has drainage and a loose, well-drained mix
Sticky leaves, cottony fluff, or clouds of tiny insects
Several common pests go after begonias: mealybugs leave cottony tufts in the leaf joints, spider mites stipple the leaves and spin fine webbing, whiteflies lift off in a cloud when you brush the plant, and thrips leave silvery scars. Isolate the plant first, then wipe off the mealybugs and rinse the leaves to knock back mites and whiteflies. Follow up with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and repeat until they're gone.
Fix:
- Isolate the affected plant
- Wipe off mealybugs and rinse foliage to dislodge mites and whiteflies
- Treat with an appropriate insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating as needed
Tall, bare canes with leaves only at the top
Cane begonias stretch and go leggy when they don't get enough light and never get pinched. Move the plant to a brighter spot with morning sun, and pinch the growing tips to push out side branches. Cut the tallest canes right back and root the pieces as cuttings to fill the plant out.
Fix:
- Move to a brighter spot with bright indirect light and some direct morning sun (e.g. an east window)
- Pinch the tips of branches to promote lateral growth and a fuller habit
- Cut back overly tall canes and use the removed shoots as cuttings
Toxicity
Keep this one away from animals. Every part holds soluble calcium oxalates, with the roots the most toxic of all, and the same compound that upsets a dog or cat can damage the kidneys of a grazing horse or goat. The sap can also leave human skin red and itchy, so wash up after pruning.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A cat that chews the leaves or stems will usually drool and vomit. The soluble calcium oxalates are the cause, and the roots hold the most of all, so keep the pot well out of reach.
Dogs Moderate
Watch for heavy drooling and vomiting soon after a dog nibbles the plant. The same oxalates are at work, and a dog that digs up and chews the roots gets the strongest dose.
Horses Toxic
Grazing on begonia is dangerous for horses, since the soluble oxalates can damage the kidneys. The buried parts carry the most toxin, so don't let a horse pull at a planting.
Rabbits Toxic
Rabbits should never be offered any part of this plant. The oxalate crystals irritate the mouth and gut, and the roots are worst of all.
Livestock Toxic
Cattle, goats, and sheep face the same kidney risk as horses when they graze the foliage or roots. Fence the plant off from any animal that might browse it.
Birds Caution
Pet birds can react to the oxalates with mouth irritation and an upset stomach. Keep curious beaks away from the leaves and stems.
People Caution
The plant isn't eaten, and the sap can leave the skin red and itchy from contact. Wash your hands after pruning and keep small children from chewing the leaves.
Sap can cause skin irritation (contact dermatitis); the underground parts (roots) are the most toxic part. Keep the plant out of reach of pets and children, and avoid letting animals graze on it
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Angel wing is really a family of cane begonias, and a few named selections show up again and again. These are the ones worth knowing.
'Argenteo-guttata'
This is the original angel wing begonia, a cross of B. aconitifolia and B. coccinea raised in 1888, and its silver-spotted wing-shaped leaves are what gave the whole group its name.
'Canary Wings'
Grown for its bright chartreuse-yellow foliage, this cane type hangs heavy clusters of red flowers against the glowing leaves.
'Corallina de Lucerna'
A vigorous old favorite, it carries large silver-spotted leaves and dangling sprays of red flowers on tall canes.
'Gryphon'
Unlike the others, this one is grown for its big palmate leaves, streaked silver on top and deep orange-red beneath, rather than for any show of flowers.
How to propagate
Angel wing begonias are some of the easiest houseplants to multiply, and a single plant gives you plenty of material to work with.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring to summer · Roots in a few weeks
This is the standard way to multiply cane begonias, and it's about as easy as propagation gets. Take a tip or stem cutting in spring or summer, stand it in water or a pot of moist mix, and it roots within a few weeks into a plant identical to its parent.
Leaf cuttingsModerate
Spring to summer · Several weeks
Leaf cuttings are a slower second option, taken in spring or summer like stem cuttings. They take several weeks to root and ask for a bit more care, so most growers reach for stem cuttings first.
DivisionEasy
At repotting · Several weeks
When you next repot a mature, crowded clump, you can split it into separate plants. Each division settles in over several weeks and grows on as its own begonia.
Myths
The leaves and stems are the most dangerous part of a begonia to pets.
It's easy to assume the foliage is the worst of it, but the ASPCA points the other way. The roots underground hold the most toxin, which is one more reason to keep pets from digging in the pot.
Begonia oxalates are the same insoluble crystals found in aroids.
They aren't the same. Begonias carry soluble calcium oxalates, which behave differently from the insoluble crystals in many aroids and can reach the kidneys of a grazing animal that eats enough.