Houseplant · Asparagaceae
African Spear
Dracaena angolensis
Give it bright light and dry soil between waterings, and the African spear all but takes care of itself.
Bright indirect
Every 14–30 days
USDA 10–11
2–7 ft · 0.6–2.1 m
Overview
The African spear is one of the most forgiving plants you can keep, a snake plant that trades flat leaves for stiff, round spears that point straight up. It comes from the dry country of southern tropical Africa, and that heritage shows in how little it asks of you. Botanists now file it under Dracaena angolensis, though most gardeners still know it by its old name, Sansevieria cylindrica.
What sets it apart is the shape. Each leaf is a smooth, tapering cylinder rather than a blade, and the spears fan out from the base in a tidy, sculptural clump. Growers sometimes braid the young leaves together or sell the squat 'Boncel' form, but underneath the styling it's the same tough, slow-growing plant.
This is a plant that punishes fussing more than neglect. Leave it in bright light, let the soil dry out hard between waterings, and it will hold its form for years. Drown it in a heavy, wet mix, though, and the base rots from the inside out.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, a gritty mix that drains fast, and water only once the soil has dried out completely, roughly every two weeks in summer and monthly in winter.
Light
It does best in bright indirect light but takes almost anything, from a sunny window to a dim corner. Low light just slows it down further. Strong afternoon sun can scorch the spears unless you bring the plant along to it gradually.
Water
Let the soil dry out completely before you water again, then soak it through. That works out to about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter. When in doubt, wait, since this plant handles drought far better than a wet pot.
Soil
Plant it in a well-draining cactus or succulent mix that lets water run straight through. The fast drainage is what keeps the roots and base from sitting wet, which is the one thing this plant can't survive.
Humidity
Average room air suits it, and low humidity is no problem at all. There's no misting or pebble tray to bother with, which is part of what makes it such an easy houseplant.
Feeding
It barely needs feeding. A monthly dose of all-purpose fertilizer at half strength through the spring and summer growing season is plenty, and there's no need to feed at all in winter.
Pruning
Pruning is minimal. Just cut away any leaf that's been damaged or has started to rot at the base, and otherwise leave the clump to do its thing.
Repotting
This is a slow grower that likes to be a little crowded, so repot only every 3 to 5 years or when roots and rhizomes start crowding the pot or bulging its sides. When you do, move up just one pot size.
Size & spacing
Indoors it reaches 2 to 7 feet (60 to 210 cm) tall over many years, with a clump spreading 6 to 24 inches (15 to 60 cm) wide. Give it a heavy pot, since the upright spears can make a tall plant top-heavy.
Troubleshooting
Nearly every problem with this plant traces back to water, light, or cold. Read the spears and the base, since that's where the early warning shows. Match what you see below and act before a small fix turns into a lost plant.
Soft, mushy base and a sour smell from the pot
This is root rot, and it almost always comes from too much water in soil that holds it. Tip the plant out, cut every black or mushy root back to firm tissue, and settle it into fresh, gritty mix. Then leave it dry until it finds its feet again.
Fix:
- Unpot and cut away rotted roots
- Repot in dry well-draining mix
- Withhold water until recovered
Leaves turning yellow, soft, and floppy
Spears that go yellow and limp are usually drinking more than they can use, a sign of overwatering or soil that stays soggy. Stop watering and let the mix dry out completely before the next drink. If it keeps happening, switch to a grittier mix or a pot that drains better.
Fix:
- Stop watering
- Let soil dry fully
- Improve drainage
Soft, discolored spears after a cold spell
Cold damage shows up once the plant sits below 55°F (13°C) or catches a frost, since this is a tender tropical that only takes the cold in zones 10 and 11. Move it somewhere warm and trim away the ruined tissue. Keep it indoors any time the temperature threatens to drop that low.
Fix:
- Move indoors
- Remove damaged tissue
Sticky film, white fluff, or fine speckling on the leaves
Sticky residue and cottony tufts point to mealybugs or scale, while fine stippling and webbing mean thrips or spider mites have moved in. Wipe the spears down with a damp cloth, follow up with insecticidal soap, and keep the plant away from your others until it's clean. A quick look over the leaves now and then catches them before they spread.
Fix:
- Wipe leaves with damp cloth
- Treat with insecticidal soap
- Isolate affected plant
Pale or browned patches on the sunny side
This is sunburn, brought on by harsh afternoon sun or a sudden jump from a shady spot into full glare. Shift the plant to morning sun only and bring it along to brighter light over a week or two rather than all at once. The scorched marks won't heal, but new growth comes in clean.
Fix:
- Move to morning sun only
- Acclimate gradually to brighter light
Toxicity
The leaves hold saponins, a natural compound that makes this plant a poor choice to leave within a pet's reach. Cats and dogs that chew it tend to drool, vomit, and get an upset stomach. People are essentially safe around it, but no part is meant to be eaten, so keep it away from small children too.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Mild
The leaves carry saponins, so a cat that chews them tends to drool and vomit. Larger nibbles can widen the pupils and leave it unsteady on its feet.
Dogs Mild
Expect drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea after a dog gnaws on a spear. Most cases stay mild and settle once the plant is out of reach.
Horses Caution
The same saponins can upset a horse's stomach, so keep the plant well clear of any that might take a bite.
Rabbits Caution
Rabbits shouldn't graze on the spears, since saponins are no kinder to them than to other pets. Keep it out of hopping reach.
Livestock Caution
Grazing animals can react to the saponins with drooling and digestive upset, so fence it off where stock roam.
Birds Caution
A curious bird that pecks the leaves may swallow the same irritating saponins, so it's best kept off the menu.
People Caution
People are essentially safe around it, though no part is meant for eating. A child who chews a leaf might drool or feel queasy, so keep it out of small hands.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
There aren't dozens of named forms to learn, just a couple worth knowing apart at the garden center.
'Boncel' (starfish sansevieria)
A dwarf cultivar whose short, fat spears spread out from the base like the arms of a starfish.
Braided form
Several young leaf cuttings woven together by the grower so the spears grow on as a single plaited column.
How to propagate
Making more of this plant is easy if you have patience, and division is far quicker than waiting on seed or cuttings.
DivisionEasy
Spring or summer, during repotting · Several weeks
The simplest way to make more is to split a clump while you're repotting in spring or summer. Pull the offsets apart at the rhizome, keeping roots on each piece, and pot them up on their own. They settle in over a few weeks and stay true to the parent.
Leaf cuttingsModerate
Spring or summer · Several weeks to months
You can also root sections of leaf taken in spring or summer, though it asks for more patience. Stand the cuttings upright in gritty mix and wait anywhere from a few weeks to a few months for roots to form. This is the route growers use when they want several cuttings to braid together.
SeedDemanding
Spring or summer · Months
Seed is the slow road and rarely worth it indoors, where the plant almost never flowers. Sow fresh seed in spring or summer and expect to wait months for anything to show. Most growers skip it for division or cuttings.
Myths
The starfish 'Boncel' is its own species.
'Boncel' is just a cultivar of Dracaena angolensis, the same plant in a squatter shape. It isn't a separate species, no matter how different the fan of short spears looks.
Braided plants grow that way on their own.
The braid is the grower's handiwork, not nature's. Young leaf cuttings get woven together by hand while they're still pliable, and the plant simply keeps the shape as it matures.
Snake plants never need watering.
They go a long time between drinks, but never is too far. Water about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, always waiting until the soil is dry before you pour.