Houseplant · Araceae
Satin Pothos
Scindapsus pictus
Give it bright, indirect light and steady warmth, and the silver-dusted leaves trail for years.
Bright indirect
61–84°F · 16–29°C
USDA 11–12
3–10 ft · 0.9–3 m
Overview
Satin pothos earns its name from leaves that look brushed with silver, scattered across a deep green that almost glows in the right light. It belongs to the arum family and comes from the tropics of Southeast Asia, where it climbs tree trunks toward the canopy. Indoors it trails just as happily from a shelf or a hanging pot.
Despite the name, this is not a true pothos. It is Scindapsus pictus, a close cousin that mimics the look and the easygoing habit. The mature leaves take on a thick, slightly puckered texture, and the silver markings hold best when the plant gets plenty of indirect light.
It asks for little once you get the watering right. Keep it warm, keep it out of harsh sun, and let the top of the soil dry between drinks, and it rewards you with long, lush vines. Push the water too far and the roots are the first to complain.
Care
The short version: bright, indirect light and a warm room above 61°F (16°C). Keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy, plant in a peaty, well-draining mix, and feed monthly through spring and summer.
Light
Give it bright, indirect light to keep the silver markings sharp. It will get by in partial shade, but the patterns fade and the growth slows, while direct sun scorches the leaves outright.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist, never soggy, and let the top dry slightly before the next drink. Ease off through winter when growth slows. Steady, soggy soil is the fastest way to rot the roots.
Soil
Plant in a peaty, organic mix that drains freely, slightly on the acidic side at a pH up to 6.0. Loose, airy soil lets water pass through so the roots never sit wet.
Temperature
Keep it warm, ideally between 61°F and 84°F (16°C to 29°C). It has no tolerance for cold, and foliage takes damage once the air drops below the low end of that range, so steer clear of drafty spots.
Humidity
Average household humidity suits it fine, so there's no figure to chase. It appreciates a more humid spot, and dry winter air is often what invites spider mites in.
Feeding
Feed monthly through spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer while the plant is actively growing. Hold off through the darker months, when it isn't using the food anyway.
Pruning
Pinch back the stems now and then to keep the plant tidy and encourage fuller growth. Trimming long vines also gives you ready-made cuttings to root.
Repotting
Move it up a pot size every 1 to 2 years, or sooner if roots push through the drainage holes and water races straight through. Fresh mix and a little more room keep it growing steadily.
Size & spacing
Left to climb or trail, the vines reach 3 to 10 feet (90 cm to 3 m) long and spread 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 cm) wide. Give the trailing stems room to hang or a support to climb.
Troubleshooting
Most satin pothos trouble traces back to watering or a stray pest that hitched a ride on another plant. Read the leaves early and you can fix things before they spread. Match what you see below, then act while it still helps.
Mushy dark roots with a foul smell
Root rot sets in when soil stays waterlogged and the roots can't breathe. Slide the plant out, cut away anything dark and mushy, and repot into dry, well-draining mix. From there, water less and let the soil dry between drinks, since this one turns serious fast.
Fix:
- Remove rotted roots
- Repot in dry well-draining mix
- Reduce watering
Leaves yellowing and going soft
Soft yellow leaves over wet soil point to overwatering, and poor drainage makes it worse. Let the top of the mix dry before you water again, and move the plant into a pot that drains freely. If the roots have started to suffer, repot into fresh mix and ease off the watering can.
Fix:
- Reduce watering
- Improve drainage
- Repot in fresh mix
Fine webbing and stippled, bronzed leaves
Spider mites move in when the air turns hot and dry, leaving fine webbing and a stippled bronze cast on the leaf undersides. Rinse the foliage hard to knock them loose, then treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil and repeat each week until they're gone. Raising the humidity makes the plant far less inviting.
Fix:
- Rinse forcefully with water
- Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Repeat weekly
White cottony tufts and sticky residue
Those white cottony clumps in the leaf joints are mealybugs, and the sticky honeydew they leave behind is a giveaway. Dab each one with an alcohol-soaked swab, follow up with insecticidal soap, and cut away any part that's heavily covered. Check new arrivals before they join the rest of your plants.
Fix:
- Dab with alcohol swab
- Apply insecticidal soap
- Prune infested parts
Waxy bumps clinging to stems and leaves
Scale insects look like small waxy disks stuck fast to the stems and leaves, and they barely move. Scrape them off by hand, wipe the spot with an alcohol swab, and finish with insecticidal soap or oil to catch the young crawlers. A close look at any new plant keeps them out in the first place.
Fix:
- Scrape off by hand
- Wipe with alcohol swab
- Apply insecticidal soap or oil
Dark spots or gray mold on the leaves
Brown-black spots or a fuzzy gray mold signal fungal leaf spot or botrytis, both of which thrive on wet leaves and still air. Pick off the affected leaves, keep water off the foliage, and open up the airflow around the plant. Watering at soil level and giving the plant room to breathe stops it coming back.
Fix:
- Remove affected leaves
- Avoid wetting foliage
- Improve airflow
Leaves curling and going limp
Curled, limp leaves over dry soil mean the plant is thirsty. Give it a thorough drink until water runs from the base, then settle into a steady rhythm. The leaves usually unfurl once the roots catch up.
Fix:
- Water thoroughly
- Maintain even moisture
Silvery streaks flecked with black specks
Silvery streaks dotted with tiny black specks are the work of thrips. Treat the plant with insecticidal soap, hang blue sticky cards to trap the adults, and rinse the leaves to clear what's left. Quarantine anything new before it spreads them around.
Fix:
- Apply insecticidal soap
- Use blue sticky cards
- Rinse foliage
Toxicity
This is not a pet-safe plant. Every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which sting and swell the mouth the moment an animal or person bites in. No part is meant for eating, so keep it well out of reach of pets and small children.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A cat that bites a leaf gets a sharp sting of calcium oxalate crystals. Expect drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, and a swollen muzzle soon after.
Dogs Moderate
Chewing brings on an immediate burning in the mouth, with drooling, retching, and noticeable swelling of the lips and tongue.
Horses Moderate
The same crystals irritate a horse's mouth and throat, leaving heavy drooling and swelling, though horses rarely vomit.
Rabbits Toxic
The leaves are not safe to nibble. The crystals inflame the mouth and gut, so keep trailing stems well out of reach of a curious rabbit.
Livestock Toxic
Grazing animals that get hold of the foliage suffer the same oral burning and digestive upset, so treat the plant as off-limits to any stock.
Birds Toxic
A bird that pecks at the leaves can hurt its mouth and crop on the crystals. Best to keep it away from where birds roam.
People Caution
No part of this plant is meant for eating, and a bite triggers burning lips, a swollen tongue, and drooling. Wash your hands after pruning and keep it out of reach of small children.
Chewing sap causes oral irritation; wash hands after handling
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
A handful of named selections show off different leaf shapes and silver patterns. These are the ones you'll most often find.
'Argyraeus'
Carries small leaves edged in silver-white and dusted with gray blotches.
'Exotica'
Shows off larger heart-shaped leaves marked with bold silver splashes.
'Silvery Ann'
Has narrow lance-shaped leaves washed with heavy silver splotches.
Shimmering Falls Silver Splash
Wears dense silver mottling spread right across the leaves.
How to propagate
Satin pothos is one of the easier houseplants to multiply, and a single healthy cutting is all it takes to start another.
Stem cuttingsEasy
Spring or early summer · Roots in a few weeks
Take a 4-inch (10 cm) stem cutting in spring or early summer and stand it in water or a pot of moist mix. Roots form within a few weeks, and from there you have a new plant identical to the parent.
Myths
Satin pothos is a true pothos.
The name is misleading. This plant is Scindapsus pictus, in the genus Scindapsus, while the true pothos belongs to Epipremnum. They look alike and grow alike, but they are different plants.
Satin pothos is safe for pets.
It is not. The ASPCA lists it as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses because of the insoluble calcium oxalate crystals in its tissue, which burn and swell the mouth on contact. Keep it well away from animals.
It thrives in deep shade or low light.
The plant tolerates lower light, but it does not thrive there. It wants bright, indirect light to hold its silver markings, and direct sun scorches the leaves.
It tolerates cold temperatures.
This is a tropical plant with no patience for chill. Foliage takes damage below about 61°F (16°C), so keep it in a warm room and away from cold drafts.