Houseplant · Araceae
Xanadu Philodendron
Philodendron xanadu
Give it bright, indirect light and steady moisture, and this self-heading philodendron fills a corner with little fuss.
Bright indirect
65–75°F · 18–24°C
USDA 9–11
2–5 ft · 0.6–1.5 m
Overview
The Xanadu philodendron is a compact, self-heading houseplant grown for its deeply lobed, glossy green leaves. It belongs to the arum family and traces back to Philodendron bipinnatifidum, though it stands on its own as a patented selection. Indoors it forms a tidy, rounded clump that holds its shape without staking or training.
What makes it an easy choice is how forgiving it is. It takes bright indirect light but shrugs off shadier corners that would stall fussier plants, and a short dry spell between waterings won't set it back. Give it a warm room and a pot that drains, and it more or less looks after itself.
Size is the one thing to plan for. A mature plant spreads 3 to 6 feet (91 to 183 cm) wide, so it wants floor space rather than a crowded shelf. The trade-off is a full, architectural plant that earns its footprint.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, soil kept evenly moist but never soggy, and a warm room between 65°F and 75°F (18°C to 24°C). Feed monthly through spring and summer, and give it room to spread.
Light
Give it bright, indirect light for the fullest, most compact growth. It tolerates partial shade and even deep shade better than most houseplants, but in true gloom the leaves spread out and the plant grows leggy. Keep it out of harsh midday sun, which can scorch the foliage.
Water
Keep the soil evenly moist while the plant is actively growing, letting the surface dry just slightly between waterings. Its moderate drought tolerance means a brief dry spell does no harm, but standing water is another matter. Overwatering is the most common cause of yellow leaves.
Soil
Plant it in a rich, humus-heavy mix that holds moisture yet drains freely. It isn't fussy about texture and will grow in sand, loam, or clay, and it accepts anything from acidic to slightly alkaline. The one thing it won't forgive is a pot that stays waterlogged.
Temperature
Indoors it prefers a steady 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C), ordinary room warmth for most homes. It has no frost tolerance, so keep it away from cold drafts and chilly windowsills in winter.
Humidity
Average household humidity suits it, so there's no number to chase. A little extra moisture in the air keeps the foliage looking its best and helps hold spider mites at bay, since those pests thrive in hot, dry rooms.
Feeding
Feed monthly with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer through spring and summer, when the plant is putting on new growth. Ease off through fall and winter while growth slows. Steady, light feeding beats the occasional heavy dose.
Pruning
This is a low-maintenance plant that needs little shaping thanks to its self-heading habit. Just remove old, yellowed, or damaged leaves at the base as they appear. Wear gloves or wash up afterward, since cut stems leak an irritating sap.
Repotting
Repot every 1 to 2 years, or once you see roots pushing through the drainage holes, growth slowing, or water running straight through the pot. Move it up to the next pot size with fresh mix in spring. The wide-spreading clump appreciates the extra root room.
Size & spacing
A mature plant reaches 2 to 5 feet (61 to 152 cm) tall and spreads a generous 3 to 6 feet (91 to 183 cm) across. Give it floor space and room for air to move around the clump rather than tucking it onto a crowded shelf.
Troubleshooting
Most trouble with this plant starts at the roots or shows up first on the leaves. Overwatering is the usual culprit, with a few common houseplant pests close behind. Match what you see below and step in early.
Lower leaves yellowing and spreading upward
Yellow leaves that start low and creep up usually mean overwatering rather than hunger. The roots are sitting in soggy soil with nowhere for the water to go. Let the top of the mix dry before you water again, make sure the pot drains freely, and pull off the worst leaves at the base.
Fix:
- Allow soil to dry slightly before next watering
- Ensure the pot and soil drain freely
- Remove badly yellowed leaves at the base
Speckled, bronzed leaves with fine webbing
This is spider mites, and hot, dry air is what brings them in. Look for tiny moving specks and thin webs on the undersides of the leaves. Rinse the foliage, wipe it clean, then treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil and keep the plant apart from the rest until it clears.
Fix:
- Rinse foliage and wipe leaves clean
- Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Isolate the affected plant
Cottony tufts or brown bumps with a sticky film
White cottony clusters point to mealybugs, while limpet-like brown bumps along the stems are scale, and both leave behind sticky honeydew. Dab the insects with an alcohol-soaked swab, then follow up with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Repeat the treatment until no new ones turn up.
Fix:
- Dab insects with an alcohol-moistened swab
- Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Repeat treatments until clear
Twisted new growth crawling with small insects
Soft-bodied aphids cluster on tender new leaves, and slender thrips leave a silvery stippling behind. Knock the aphids off with a stream of water, treat with insecticidal soap, and cut away any growth that's badly infested. Go easy on feeding, since a flush of soft new shoots is exactly what draws them.
Fix:
- Rinse off aphids with a stream of water
- Treat with insecticidal soap
- Remove heavily infested growth
Dark spots scattered across the leaves
Discrete brown spots, sometimes ringed with a yellow halo, come from fungal leaf-spot that takes hold on wet foliage. They spread fastest in damp, humid air. Remove the marked leaves, open the plant up for better airflow, and water at the soil line so the leaves stay dry.
Fix:
- Remove affected leaves
- Improve air circulation
- Avoid wetting foliage when watering
Toxicity
This is a toxic plant, so treat it with care around pets, livestock, and children. Every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that burn the mouth and throat the moment they're chewed, causing drooling, swelling, and trouble swallowing. No part is edible, and even the sap can irritate skin and eyes, so wash your hands after pruning.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
A bite into a leaf releases sharp calcium oxalate crystals that sting the mouth at once. Expect heavy drooling, pawing at the muzzle, vomiting, and trouble swallowing.
Dogs Moderate
Chewing brings on an intense burning of the lips and tongue, with drooling and retching close behind. Most dogs spit the plant out fast, which usually keeps them from eating much.
Horses Toxic
The same crystals inflame a horse's mouth and throat, leaving it drooling and reluctant to eat. Swelling of the tongue and lips can follow a mouthful.
Rabbits Toxic
Those crystals irritate a rabbit's mouth and gut just as readily, so keep the foliage well out of reach. A rabbit in pain often goes off its food, which is its own danger.
Livestock Toxic
Goats, sheep, and cattle that browse the leaves get the same burning mouth and digestive upset. They tend to leave it alone once the first bite stings.
Birds Caution
A pecking bird can pick up the same oral irritation and drooling from the crystals. Keep cages and perches clear of the plant to be safe.
People Caution
No part of this plant is meant to be eaten. A chewed leaf burns the mouth and can swell the lips and tongue, and the sap stings skin and eyes, so wash your hands after handling cut stems.
Sap can irritate skin, eyes and mucous membranes; wash hands after pruning or handling cut stems
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
How to propagate
This philodendron is simple to multiply at home, either by splitting an established clump or by rooting a cutting taken from the base.
DivisionEasy
Spring to summer · A few weeks to re-establish roots
Division is the simplest way to make more, and the clumping, self-heading habit makes it easy. Lift an established plant in spring or summer and tease it apart into rooted sections, each with its own offsets. The divisions settle in and put out fresh roots within a few weeks.
Stem cuttingsModerate
Spring to summer · Several weeks to root
You can also root stem cuttings, as the Missouri Botanical Garden notes alongside seed. Take a basal cutting that includes a node in spring or summer, and give it several weeks to root. Most plants on the market are tissue-cultured rather than grown this way, but it works at home.
Myths
Xanadu's only correct name is Thaumatophyllum xanadu after its reclassification.
A 2018 study did move several Philodendron species into Thaumatophyllum, but the question isn't settled. Kew's Plants of the World Online still treats Philodendron xanadu as the accepted name and files Thaumatophyllum xanadu as a synonym, so the genus placement remains contested between authorities.
Xanadu is just a dwarf form of split-leaf philodendron.
It is a distinct selection in its own right, trademarked XANADU and patented as 'Winterbourn' under US plant patent PP7030. It was grown from seed of Philodendron bipinnatifidum with unknown parentage, and Kew recognizes it as its own species rather than a shrunken selloum.