Houseplant · Araceae
Pink Princess Philodendron
Philodendron erubescens 'Pink Princess'
Give it bright indirect light and steady moisture, and the Pink Princess holds its candy-pink leaves all year.
Bright indirect
65–85°F · 18–29°C
USDA 10–12
2–60 ft · 0.6–18.3 m
Overview
The Pink Princess is a climbing philodendron from the arum family, grown for the splashes of bubblegum pink that streak its dark green, heart-shaped leaves. No two leaves come out alike. That randomness is the whole appeal, and it's also what makes the plant a bit of a project.
The pink is a chimeral variegation, meaning it sits in only part of the plant's tissue and isn't guaranteed to pass to the next leaf. A stem can revert to plain green and, left alone, outgrow the pink entirely. Reading the new growth and pruning at the right spot is how you keep the color.
Indoors it stays manageable, usually around 3 feet (90 cm) on a moss pole or trellis, though the species can climb far higher in the wild. Give it warmth, bright indirect light, and a mix that drains well, and it grows at a steady, forgiving pace.
Care
The short version: bright indirect light, warmth between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C), and a moist but free-draining mix, with reverted green stems pruned back to keep the pink.
Light
Give it bright indirect light near a window but out of the hot, direct beam, which scorches the leaves. Good light also drives the pink, so a spot that's too dim leaves you with weak, mostly green growth.
Water
Keep the mix evenly moist but never soggy, letting the excess drain away each time. Waterlogged soil is the fastest way to root rot, so err toward draining well over watering often.
Soil
Plant in a rich, well-draining mix built on organic matter like loam or silt. An acidic to neutral pH suits it, and the drainage matters more than the exact recipe, since standing water rots the roots.
Temperature
It does best in a warm room between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C). Keep it away from cold drafts and chilly windowsills in winter, since it has no tolerance for the cold.
Humidity
This plant likes high humidity and shows it with fuller, healthier leaves. It will adapt to average room air, but a humidifier or a pebble tray nearby helps it look its best.
Feeding
Feed monthly through spring and summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength. Ease off in the darker months when growth slows, since the plant isn't taking up much then.
Pruning
Prune to shape the plant and, more importantly, to protect the pink. When a stem reverts to all green, cut it back to a node that still bears pink, or that vigorous green growth will take over.
Repotting
Repot in spring once it's root-bound, which you'll spot when roots fill the pot or push out the drainage holes. Step up just one pot size so the fresh mix doesn't stay wet around the roots.
Size & spacing
24–720 in (61–1829 cm) tall
Troubleshooting
Most Pink Princess trouble shows up in the leaves and roots, and the two biggest culprits are watering and light. Catch the early signs and the fixes are simple. Match what you see below, then act before it spreads.
Yellow, wilting leaves and soil that never dries out
This is root rot, and it almost always traces back to overwatering or a mix that holds too much water. Roots that should feel firm and pale turn soft and brown, and the plant wilts even though the soil is wet. Repot into a fresh, fast-draining mix, cut away any rotted roots, and water less often once it recovers.
Fix:
- Reduce watering frequency
- Repot into a fresh, well-draining, organic-rich mix
- Trim away rotted roots
New growth coming in all green instead of pink
The pink comes from a chimeral variegation that the plant doesn't always hold, so an all-green stem can take over and outgrow the variegated parts. Too little light pushes it the same way. Prune the reverted stem back to a node that still shows pink, then give the plant bright indirect light so the variegated growth can catch up.
Fix:
- Prune the reverted stem back to a node that still bears pink variegation
- Provide bright indirect light
Dark spots and lesions spreading across the leaves
Discrete spots, sometimes ringed by a yellow halo, point to a fungal or bacterial leaf spot that takes hold when the air is still and the foliage stays wet. Pull off the marked leaves and open up the space around the plant so air can move. Keep water off the leaves when you water.
Fix:
- Remove affected leaves
- Improve air circulation
- Avoid wetting the foliage
Webbing, sticky residue, or cottony specks on the plant
These are the calling cards of sap-feeding pests such as spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, scale, and thrips. Fine webbing means mites, cottony masses mean mealybugs, and a sticky film means something is feeding. Wipe or rinse the bugs off, treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and move the plant away from the others until it's clean.
Fix:
- Wipe off or rinse away pests
- Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Isolate the affected plant
Bleached or scorched patches on the leaves
Pale or crispy damage on the side facing the window is sun scorch from direct sunlight. This plant wants bright but filtered light, not a hot beam through the glass. Move it back from the window or behind a sheer curtain into bright indirect light.
Fix:
- Move to bright indirect light, out of direct sun
Toxicity
This is a toxic houseplant, so place it well out of reach of pets and children. Every part holds insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that sting and burn the mouth the moment they're chewed, and the sap can irritate bare skin. Nothing on this plant is meant to be eaten.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Moderate
Chewing a leaf releases sharp calcium oxalate crystals that burn the mouth right away. Expect drooling, pawing at the face, vomiting, and a cat that won't swallow because the mouth and tongue are sore and swollen.
Dogs Moderate
A dog that bites into the foliage gets a mouthful of stinging crystals. Look for heavy drooling, retching or vomiting, swelling around the lips and tongue, and trouble swallowing soon after.
Horses Moderate
The same crystals inflame a horse's mouth and throat, bringing on drooling, painful swelling, and difficulty swallowing. Horses don't vomit, so the burning stays in the mouth and gut.
Rabbits Caution
The oxalate crystals irritate a rabbit's mouth just as they do other animals, so keep the plant out of reach. A nibbled leaf can leave a rabbit sore-mouthed and off its food.
Livestock Caution
Grazing animals that mouth the leaves get the same burning irritation and drooling. It isn't a pasture plant, but a curious goat or sheep with access can end up with a sore, swollen mouth.
Birds Caution
A bird that bites the foliage meets the same irritant crystals, with swelling and discomfort in the mouth. Keep pet birds away from the leaves and stems.
People Caution
No part of this plant is meant to be eaten. A chewed leaf burns the mouth and lips, and the sap can leave skin red and itchy, so wear gloves when you prune and keep it away from small children.
Sap can cause contact dermatitis - wash hands or wear gloves when pruning
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
How to propagate
You can make more Pink Princess plants from the one you have, but only from growth that already carries pink. Both methods are straightforward as long as you start from a variegated node.
Stem cuttingsModerate
Spring to summer, during active growth · Several weeks to root
Take cuttings in spring or summer while the plant is actively growing, and make sure each cutting carries at least one node bearing pink variegation. A cutting from an all-green section only grows green, because the variegation is chimeral. Set it in a moist medium and give it several weeks to root.
LayeringModerate
Spring to summer, during active growth · Several weeks to root before separating
Layering is the gentler route, done in spring or summer during active growth. You root a stem while it's still attached to the parent, wait the several weeks it takes to root, then cut it free as its own plant.
Myths
The pink variegation is stable and every new leaf will keep coming out pink.
The pink comes from a chimeral variegation that isn't fixed, and the plant can revert to all green at any time. A vigorous green stem will outgrow the variegated parts if you let it. Prune reverted growth back to a pink node to keep the color coming.
A stem that has gone all green will turn pink again on its own.
Once a stem reverts to all green it stays that way, since the green tissue is stable and won't recover its variegation. Cut it back to a node that still shows pink so variegated growth can pick up from there.