Shrub · Rosaceae
Cotoneaster
Cotoneaster
Tough, drought-proof, and covered in red berries through winter, cotoneaster asks for almost nothing once it takes hold.
Full sun
Every 7–14 days
USDA 5–7
2–3 ft · 0.6–0.9 m
Overview
Cotoneaster is a hardy shrub in the rose family, grown for its arching shape, small leaves, and the red berries that hang on long after the leaves of other plants have dropped. The forms range from flat groundcovers that hug a slope to upright shrubs taller than a person, so there is one to suit almost any spot. Late spring brings small white-to-pink flowers, and bees work them hard.
What sells most gardeners on it is how little it asks. It shrugs off poor, rocky, and dry soil, takes cold down to -20°F (-29°C), and once its roots are down it barely needs watering. That toughness makes it a go-to for banks, hedges, and the awkward corners where fussier plants sulk.
It is not flawless. Cotoneaster is very prone to fire blight, and birds spreading the berries have turned some species into garden escapees in mild regions. Know those two quirks going in and the plant repays you with years of easy color.
Care
The short version: give it full sun to part shade and any well-drained soil, water it through the first season to settle the roots, and after that leave it be apart from light pruning to shape it.
Light
Cotoneaster does best in full sun, where it flowers and fruits most heavily, but it takes partial shade and partial sun without much complaint. The more sun it gets, the better the berry show.
Water
Water it regularly through the first growing season so the roots get established. After that it is genuinely drought tolerant and needs little extra water. The one thing it won't forgive is wet, poorly drained ground.
Soil
Almost any well-drained soil suits it, and it handles clay, sand, and poor or rocky ground that would stall other shrubs. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. Soggy soil is the real enemy, so drainage matters more than richness.
Temperature
This is a cold-hardy shrub, comfortable from about -20°F to 100°F (-29°C to 38°C). That range covers a lot of climates, which is part of why it turns up in so many gardens.
Humidity
Ordinary outdoor air suits it fine, so there is no humidity figure to hit. Good airflow does matter, since crowded, still conditions favor fire blight and other leaf troubles.
Feeding
These are tough shrubs that often need little to no feeding in average soil. If growth looks weak, a balanced general-purpose fertilizer in early spring is plenty. Go light, because soft, lush growth is exactly what fire blight likes.
Pruning
Cotoneaster needs minimal pruning. Trim after flowering or in late winter to shape it, take out dead or crossing branches, and rein in its spread. Cut out any fire-blighted wood the moment you see it, disinfecting your tools between every cut.
Repotting
Cotoneaster is rarely repotted, and most plants live their whole life in the ground. For a containerized shrub, move up a size if you see roots circling or poking from the drainage holes, water running straight through, or growth slowing down.
Size & spacing
Size depends on the type, but this form runs about 2 to 3 feet (61 to 91 cm) tall and spreads a wide 6 to 8 feet (183 to 244 cm). Give it room to sprawl, since crowding it cuts airflow and invites disease.
When to plant
Cotoneaster is a woody shrub you plant once and keep for years, not a crop you time to a season. Set new plants out in spring or fall while the soil is workable, then look for flowers in late spring and the red berries from late summer on, holding through fall and into winter.
Northern hemisphere
Southern hemisphere
Typical months for a temperate climate: start earlier in warm zones, later where spring frosts linger.
- Plant: spring or fall
- Harvest: Flowers in late spring; red berries ripen in late summer and persist into fall and winter
Hardiness
USDA hardiness zones: 5–7
Temperature: down to -29°C
Troubleshooting
Cotoneaster is easy, but a few problems do turn up, and the worst of them moves fast. Watch the new shoots and the leaves, since that is where the first signs show. Match what you see below and act early, especially with anything that looks like blight.
Shoots blacken and bend into a shepherd's crook
This is fire blight, a bacterial disease that cotoneaster catches easily and that kills new growth from the tip down. The blackened shoots curl into a hooked shape and may ooze. Cut well below the damage into clean wood, wipe your tools between cuts, and burn or bin the prunings rather than composting them.
Fix:
- Prune out infected branches well below visible damage (at least 20-30 cm into healthy wood)
- Disinfect pruning tools between every cut
- Remove and destroy all infected prunings; do not compost
- Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizing, which encourages susceptible succulent growth
Leaves turn speckled and bronzed with dark specks underneath
Two pests cause this look. Lace bugs leave shiny black droppings on the leaf undersides, while spider mites show up in hot, dry spells and spin fine webbing. Hose the foliage down to knock back mites, then treat the undersides with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, repeating through the season if they return.
Fix:
- Hose down foliage to dislodge mites
- Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to affected foliage, especially leaf undersides
- Repeat applications as needed during the season
Leaves bound in silk webbing and chewed to the veins
This is the cotoneaster webworm, whose caterpillars feed hidden inside the silk they spin among the branches. Snip out and destroy the webbed branch tips as soon as you spot them. While the larvae are still small, a treatment of Bacillus thuringiensis or another suitable insecticide brings them under control.
Fix:
- Prune out and destroy webbed branch tips
- Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or an appropriate insecticide while larvae are small
Toxicity
Treat cotoneaster as a plant to keep out of mouths. Every part of it, from the leaves to the bright berries, holds cyanogenic glycosides that release small amounts of cyanide. A stray berry tends to cause only mild stomach upset, but a large helping can be genuinely dangerous, so keep fallen fruit picked up and steer pets, livestock, and young children away from it.
Toxic to
Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People
Cats Caution
A nibbled berry or leaf usually brings on drooling and a bout of vomiting. Keep an eye out for a big mouthful, since a large helping can push into cyanide territory with weakness and labored breathing.
Dogs Caution
Most dogs that grab a few berries get away with an upset stomach and some vomiting. Trouble starts when one eats a large quantity, which can trigger the same cyanide effects and warrants a call to the vet.
Horses Toxic
Horses graze in bulk, and that makes them more vulnerable here. Enough leaves or berries can release dangerous cyanide, showing as rapid breathing, staggering, and collapse, so keep them clear of the shrub.
Rabbits Toxic
The cyanogenic compounds in the foliage and berries make cotoneaster a poor and risky choice for a rabbit. Don't offer any part of it, and fence it off where rabbits roam.
Livestock Toxic
Cattle, sheep, and goats can browse enough greenery or fruit to release a harmful dose of cyanide. Watch for sudden distress, gasping, and weakness, and keep the plant out of their pasture and reach.
Birds Caution
Wild birds eat the ripe berries and spread the seed without harm, but caged pet birds are smaller and far more sensitive. Keep cotoneaster away from companion birds, since even a little can be too much for them.
People Caution
No part of cotoneaster is a food, and the berries only look tempting. A stray berry or two tends to cause mild stomach upset at most, but eating a real quantity can bring on cyanide symptoms, so keep the fruit away from young children.
Keep fallen berries picked up and discourage pets and children from eating berries or chewing foliage.
Helpline numbers
United States
ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)
Poison Control: (800) 222-1222
Canada
Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669
Varieties
Cotoneaster covers a wide range of shapes, from ground-hugging mats to tall, arching shrubs. These are the kinds you are most likely to meet.
Cotoneaster horizontalis (Rockspray Cotoneaster)
A low spreader that tops out around 2 to 3 feet but runs 6 to 8 feet wide, laying its branches out in the flat fishbone pattern that gives it its name.
Cotoneaster franchetii (Orange/Gray Cotoneaster)
An upright, mostly evergreen shrub reaching 6 to 10 feet with orange-red berries, though it has a habit of escaping gardens in mild-winter regions.
Cotoneaster salicifolius (Willowleaf Cotoneaster)
A larger, arching shrub set apart by its long, narrow willow-like leaves and the heavy clusters of red berries it carries.
Cotoneaster dammeri (Bearberry Cotoneaster)
A flat-growing evergreen that roots as it creeps along the ground, which makes it a good pick for covering slopes and holding soil in place.
How to propagate
Cotoneaster gives you three easy ways in, and one of them happens whether you plan it or not. Pick the method that fits how soon you want a plant and how much fuss you feel like.
Stem cuttingsModerate
Summer · Several weeks to root; one or more seasons to establish
Take semi-hardwood cuttings in summer and root them somewhere warm and humid. They strike roots over several weeks, but plan on a season or more before a young plant is truly settled in.
SeedModerate
Fall · One or more seasons; seed needs stratification and germination is slow
Birds do most of this work for you, eating the berries and dropping the seed far and wide. To do it on purpose, sow in fall and give the seed a cold spell, since stratification is what breaks its dormancy. Be patient, because germination is slow and a seedling needs a season or more to get going.
LayeringEasy
Spring to summer · One season or more to root where stems touch the soil
This is the hands-off route. The low, spreading branches root on their own wherever they press against moist soil, so from spring through summer you can pin a stem down and let it take hold over a season or more before cutting it free.
Myths
Cotoneaster berries are deadly, and a single one will seriously harm a pet.
The berries are only mildly toxic. A cat or dog that eats a few usually gets nothing worse than a sour stomach, and it takes a real mouthful before the cyanide compounds reach a dangerous level. The danger is in the quantity, not the single berry.
Cotoneaster is pest- and disease-free, so it never runs into serious trouble.
It earns its easy reputation, but it is far from bulletproof. Cotoneaster is very prone to fire blight, and lace bugs, webworm, spider mites, leaf spot, and canker can all take a turn on it.