Why do tomato leaves turn yellow and brown?

Published: Oktober 10, 2025
Updated: Oktober 10, 2025

The yellow and brown leaves of tomatoes indicate serious plant stress. Fungal-infected tomatoes exhibit brown bullseye-type areas (early blight) and little dark dots (Septoria leaf spot). Bacterial diseases display water-soaked regions of the leaf that subsequently turn black. Nutritional deficiencies appear as the leaves turn uniformly yellow, with the veins remaining green. Over-watering suffocates the roots, causing the leaves to turn pale and subsequently brown.

Pattern-Based Identification

  • Uniform yellowing: Nitrogen or magnesium deficiency
  • Yellow between veins: Iron deficiency at high pH
  • Brown spots with yellow halos: Bacterial speck or spot
  • Brown concentric rings: Early blight fungal infection
  • Rapid browning from edges: Verticillium wilt disease

Location Clues

  • Lower leaves affected first: Nitrogen deficiency
  • New growth yellowing: Iron or sulfur deficiency
  • Random distribution: Fungal or bacterial disease
  • Upper leaves curling down: Viral infection
  • Leaf tips browning: Salt buildup or fertilizer burn

Environmental Triggers

  • Wet foliage for 12+ hours: Fungal spore activation
  • Temperatures above 90°F/32°C: Heat stress yellowing
  • Cold nights below 55°F/13°C: Chilling injury
  • High nitrogen fertilization: Magnesium lockout
  • Compacted soil: Root oxygen deprivation
Symptom-Based Troubleshooting
Leaf SymptomYellow between veinsLikely CauseIron deficiencyImmediate Action
Apply chelated iron foliar spray
Leaf SymptomBrown spots with halosLikely CauseBacterial diseaseImmediate Action
Remove affected leaves, apply copper spray
Leaf SymptomLower leaves yellowingLikely CauseNitrogen deficiencyImmediate Action
Side-dress with balanced fertilizer
Leaf SymptomRapid edge browningLikely CauseVerticillium wiltImmediate Action
Remove plant, solarize soil
Based on Ohio State Extension data

Before correcting any symptoms, test your soil. I use kits that test basic pH and nutrients. First, ensure the pH is within the range of 6.0-6.8 for optimal nutrient uptake. If there is a nitrogen deficiency, amend the soil with compost to address the issue. If there is a magnesium deficiency, use Epsom salt. Avoid excessive fertilizer, which can burn the roots.

Improve watering practices drastically. Water only when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. Drip irrigation instead of sprinklers. I water deeply twice weekly, instead of daily light watering. Mulch allows for moisture retention and prevents soil splash, which spreads diseases.

Treat diseases quickly with fit-for-purpose treatments. Use copper fungicide at 2 oz per gallon for fungal spots. Use streptomycin for bacterial infections, but apply it only a few times. Remove very infected plants ASAP. I keep a log of the treatments and what worked.

Read the full article: Tomato Plant Diseases: Comprehensive Guide

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