When to Prune Lavender for Best Results

The success of your garden relates to when to prune lavender. I learned this the hard way when I lost a couple of plants to a late prune. A precise time not only avoids woody stems but also promotes fresh growth. Your lavender will survive longer. And you get better-smelling flowers! If you prune at the wrong time, you will have weak and leggy plants.

I prune my lavender every year for its health. You should, too. Regular trimming helps avoid woodiness. It is a straightforward practice that contributes to plant longevity; I have kept mine for over 10 years. If you don't prune, it produces scant flowers, flimsy stems, and is very easily broken.

Harvest your lavender flowers at optimal bloom in mid-summer. I always look for deep purple color and a good smell. Cut stems approximately 10 cm below the flower heads; this leaves you enough stem for tying the bundles you want. Choose dry mornings after the dew has dried.

To dry lavender, I use small bundles and hang them upside down to allow them to dry. I place the lavender in my shed where there is good airflow. Properly drying the lavender will keep the color much brighter. The flowers will bleach in direct sunlight. You want to keep the buds whole, as these easily crumble when fully dry.

Create homemade sachets with dried lavender for your drawers. I use it in cookies and teas. It pairs nicely with shortbread. Put what you don't use in jars with lids, and they will last at least a year. Share some with friends; who doesn't love lavender as a gift?

Lightly water your lavender plants after pruning. I use about 1 cup for each plant. This minimizes root stress and prevents the plant from drowning. Do not thoroughly soak your lavender, as this can lead to root rot. Hold the substrate barely moist. Sandy substrates require watering every 3-4 days during hot weather.

Look for new shoots after 4 - 8 weeks. I mark on the calendar to remind myself to check progress. Healthy buds will appear silvery-green or green near the cut points. If you haven't seen growth in 10 weeks, there could be a problem. You can test for flexibility in the stems. If the stems are brittle and break, use a care plan. Take weekly photographs to document its progress toward recovery.

Before the winter commences, apply organic mulch around the base of the plant. I often use straw, packing mulch, or shredded bark as mulch. To adequately insulate, apply the mulch 2-3 inches thick. Gradually remove it in the spring when temperatures exceed 50°F. Do not use plastic covers to insulate either; moisture will become trapped, leading to rot or the plant's demise. If you are in a windy area, consider placing burlap screens around the plant to protect it from wind damage.

Use your bypass secateurs as the main tool for pruning lavender. I prefer my Felco F-2 secateurs because they have a comfortable grip. They produce clean cuts that heal quickly. Do not use anvil pruners, as they crush the softer stem. Every cut must be precise. You will use your bypass secateurs most effectively if they are sharp.

Be sure to sanitize your blades with a 70% alcohol solution after every plant. I soak cotton pads in alcohol and wipe mine down. This helps to stop the disease from spreading between bushes. Bleach solutions work as well. Mix one part bleach to nine 9-parts water. Be sure to rinse the tools after use to prevent rust.

Hedge trimmers should never be used on lavender. I learned this the hard way. They rip apart the stems instead of making a nice, clean cut. Damaged wood is an invitation for insect pests or decay. That's why hand pruners will give you the most control. If you are pruning a larger hedge, then finish your shaping with secateurs. Your lavender plants will be healthier.

Begin your spring pruning once you observe silvery-green buds forming on the plants. Personally, I usually start in late March for my younger plants. I recommend shortening them by up to one-third. For mature lavender, however, you will want to prune with a much lighter touch. Simply take off one-quarter of growth. This minimizes stress while stimulating the growth of bushy new stems at the base.

Before cutting any stems, make sure your tools are sanitized. I even wipe my secateurs with a 70% alcohol solution. Make angled cuts 45 degrees away from buds. First, remove stems that are too long. Take out crossing branches. Never cut below the lowest green growth. Shape plants to form a dome for even light coverage.

Create symmetry by trimming the central stems shorter than the outside ones. I will step back every few cuts to check. Dispose of any infected wood immediately in sealed bags. A healthy lavender plant will show a new growth shoot within three weeks. Don't worry about any uneven areas until next season.

In early spring, about March, cut back English lavender hard, up to one-third cut from growth. French lavender requires light summer pruning after bloom. I learned this after losing the French plants to spring cultivation. The tender new stems cannot tolerate harsh pruning.

Time pruning when temperatures are at or above 45°F (7°C). In colder zones such as Minnesota, wait for the end of April. In the south, start pruning in February. I take a reading to gauge temperatures before making any cuts. Frost does harm to freshly cut. Temperatures should not exceed 90°F (32°C), as heat is stressful for plants.

Pruning late can cause winter dieback in plants. I had plants die from cuts that I made in October. Frost can get into fresh cuts. They will kill stems from inside the stem. To avoid problems with winter dieback, finish summer pruning by the beginning of September for places north of Zone 6. Southern gardeners are good until October. The health of the plant is more important than the date on the calendar.

Annual trimming will keep your lavender plants going for years. I've kept the same plants for over ten years through regular maintenance. Pruning in the spring and deadheading in the summer develop solid growth patterns. This cycle does not allow woody stems to grow. Your plants remain vigorous and healthy year after year.

Always ensure you have bypass secateurs for clean cuts. This is something I learned after ruining plants because I didn't have the right tools. Also, be sure to clean the blades to prevent the spread of disease to your bushes. Angled cuts heal more quickly, and your lavender will respond with vigorous growing. Having the proper tool makes maintenance easier and more effective.

When you prune properly, you can expect lots of blooms produced from your carefully maintained plants. This summer, my garden was filled with intoxicating fragrance. Healthy lavender also thrives from pollinators. Share cuttings, share dried flowers. The beauty and scent of lavender can elevate any home.