To improve root systems and support leggy seedlings, we can bury the pepper plant stems up to the first true leaves. I took habaneros that I had over-wintered, and replanted them 3 inches deeper than where they originally were to increase drought resistance. This is similar to how tomatoes can develop adventitious roots along any buried part of a stem.
Benefits
- Creates robust root networks
- Supports top-heavy plants in wind
- Revives stretched seedlings from indoor starts
Technique
- Remove lower leaves before burying
- Angle stems slightly in trenches for stability
- Water deeply post-planting to settle soil
Avoid These Mistakes
- Never bury graft unions on hybrid plants
- Skip in cold soils below 55°F (13°C)
- Don't compact soil around stems
Soil temperature determines the success situation. I lost a batch of bell peppers the year I buried stems in 50°F (10°C) spring soil, and they developed stem rot. Now I wait until the ground temperatures are at 60°F (16°C) for bell peppers, with a probe thermometer. Raised beds add a bit of warmth, allowing me to plant earlier.
Watering
- Avoid overhead irrigation for 1 week
- Use drip lines to keep stems dry
- Mulch after soil warms
Fertilization
- Delay feeding until new growth appears
- Apply fish emulsion for root development
- Skip high-nitrogen formulas initially
For grafted plants, it is crucial to position the union above soil level. My graft of a scorpion pepper plant failed when the soil covered the point of contact (splice point). I now use a small piece of tape to identify the graft and plant my grafts at their original depth. I try to air-prune circling roots before transplanting to promote their growth outward to find proper soil moisture and nutrients.
Read the full article: How to Grow Peppers: Expert Harvest Tips
