How to Grow Strawberries: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

The first step in learning how to grow strawberries is choosing the best type. June-bearing strawberries like *Honeoye* will set you up with a midsummer harvest, and day-neutral types like *Albion* will give you tasty berries from spring to frost. I once lost a crop because I planted alpine types in full sun. Be sure that you're matching the variety of strawberries to both the climate where you live and the end goals of your growing process.

The acidity of your soil is key to your success in growing strawberries. Strawberries prefer a 5.5-6.8 pH - that's why I test my soil every year with a simple soil test kit that costs around $10. In my heavy clay soil in Oregon, I was able to lower my pH from 7.2 to 6.5 by adding sulfur. If you have sandy soils, you'll want to add lime. Get it wrong, and the nutrients in the soil will not be available to the strawberry plants.

Sunlight changes tartness into sweetness. Plants need 6+ hours of direct sun or so - my berries were sour (again, shaded first attempt). Use a sun meter app to track your patterns. Growers in the south should prioritize morning sunlight to avoid afternoon heat exhaustion.

New growers are often overwatering, or overcrowding their plants. The crowns should be spaced 18 inches apart from each other - think of strawberries as introverts, they need room to breathe. If you are watering, use drip lines instead of sprinklers. I switched to straw mulch last season and cut my fungal issues in half.

Learning how to grow strawberries begins with picking for growing types that work with your harvest goals. June-bearing types, like *Earliglow*, produce a ton of fruit for 2-3 weeks each summer - this is great for people who want to jam. I planted 50 June-bearing plants last year, and froze 12 quarts. The day-neutral type, like *Albion*, produces fewer fruits over time until frost - great for added daily snacks.

Alpine strawberries flourish in conditions that vex other strawberry varieties. Because of their small stature, they are the best fruit for growing in containers, I have *Mara des Bois* growing in two hanging baskets under my porch roof. Their fruit is similar in size to marbles, with the taste punch of a wild strawberry. Expect to yield fewer berries than you will with traditional varieties, but the flavor is unrivaled in shady locations.

Those of you who garden in cold climates should lean toward hardy varieties. In my trial plot in Minnesota, I had *Honeoye* survive at -15°F after it was properly mulched. If you live in a hot zone, *Seascape* can take on coastal humidity without any cracking. Choose a variety that matches your USDA zone maps. Note that planting the wrong variety can set you back a few seasons.

The yield is dependent on the allocation of space. June-bearing plants require *1 square foot each* for runners (my bed, measuring 10 feet long and 4 feet wide, produces about 15 lbs each year). While urban growers might have more space and be able to produce 2 lbs of berries from a 24-inch-diameter pot containing 5 day-neutral plants. Producing more fruits does not mean more plants, especially if over-crowding leads to increased mold.

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June-bearing (e.g., Honeoye)

• Cold-hardy: Thrives in USDA Zones 3-8 with winter mulching
• Yield: Produces 1-2 quarts per plant in late spring
• Use case: Ideal for large gardens and jam-making

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Alpine (e.g., Fragaria vesca)

• Compact growth: Reaches 6-8 inches tall, no runners
• Flavor: Intense sweetness despite small berry size
• Adaptability: Tolerates partial shade and poor soils

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Albion (Day-neutral)

• Heat tolerance: Performs well in zones 4-8 up to 85°F (29°C)
• Yield consistency: Produces berries from spring to fall
• Disease resistance: Resistant to verticillium wilt and anthracnose

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Seascape (Day-neutral)

• Coastal adaptation: Tolerates salty air and sandy soils
• Flavor profile: Balanced sweetness with slight tartness
• Size: 1-1.5 inch berries ideal for fresh eating

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Mara des Bois (Everbearing)

• Heirloom variety: Renowned for wild strawberry aroma
• Container favorite: Compact size suits 5-gallon pots
• Yield: 1-2 pints per plant twice annually

Preparing soil for strawberries requires an awareness of the region's soil chemistry. Where I garden, in the Pacific Northwest, I add 1 cup of sulfur per 10 sq ft of soil to lower the pH of alkaline clay soil down to 6.2. In arid regions, growers commonly add lime to their soil to amend the pH. The cost of an inexpensive soil test kit is less than the cost of a latte, and it will save you from crop failure!

When dealing with heavy clay, combine three parts compost with one part sand, which is the combination I used to save my waterlogged raised bed. For sandy soils, a compost-to-sand mixture of 4:1 is ideal, and last spring I saved my neighbor's sandy raised bed by adding peat moss. Structure is more important than you think!

The depth of planting kills more strawberries than any pest! Bury the Crown's base(where roots meet stems) 1/4 inch below the surface. I lost 20 plants learning that. Too deep - crown rot. Too shallow - dry roots. Use a chopstick as a guide to determine depth for strawberry planting.

Bare-root plants require earlier plantings. Bare-root should be soaked in a kelp solution overnight and planted during March. Potted varieties can be planted in May after concerns about frost have passed. In my trials in Oregon, bare-root varieties produced 30% more in year one. Potted varieties provide a compromise in speed vs. convenience when planting - and you can choose depending on your tolerance of being patient.

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Soil pH Test Kit

• Accuracy: ±0.2 pH units
• Usage: Test 4-6 soil samples per bed
• Frequency: Retest annually

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Compost Mix

• Ratio: 3 parts soil to 1 part compost
• Depth: Work into top 8 inches
• Nutrients: 2-1-1 NPK average

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Planting Trowel

• Blade size: 4-inch depth marker
• Material: Rust-resistant steel
• Use: Dig 6-inch wide holes

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Measuring Tape

• Length: 25-foot capacity
• Markings: Dual imperial/metric units
• Durability: Fiberglass coating

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Straw Bale

• Coverage: 1 bale per 50 sq ft
• Preparation: Fluff before application
• Storage: Keep dry under tarp

To achieve maximum sweetness, strawberries require six hours of direct sunlight each day. In my backyard, I had a patch of strawberries that were in partial shade, and the berries were very tart, so I moved them to a full-sun location, and their sugar content tripled. For southern growers, a big caveat is to have morning sun to avoid heat scalding. If your strawberries are getting less than four hours of direct sunlight, you can expect small, sour berries.

Drip irrigation outdoes sprinklers when it comes to disease management. Sprinklers caused leaf spots during my first season of gardening, and after switching to drip line irrigation fungal issues decreased by over 70%. Remember to water at soil level, early in the morning! For sandy soils aim for 1.5 inches of water weekly and clay soils, 1 inch. It's easiest to measure with rain gauges.

You should assess which plants are younger before performing any pruning. I remove all flowers from all June-bearing plants that are in their first growing year so the roots grow thicker. I would remove about 30% of the runners from mature everbearing types. I use bypass shears that I sterilize with vodka instead of alcohol - that's a little trick I picked up from my commercial grower source. The more you cut, the more you will get back in future harvest.

Apply straw or pine needles as mulch no later than 3 weeks after planting. My 2-inch layer of straw reduced my watering needs by 40% and minimized crabgrass pressure. Do not use wood chips as they will leach nitrogen. Renew mulch annually before winter. This provides an insulation buffer for soil temperatures and keeps berries clean and mud-free.

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Sunlight Meter

• Range: 0-2000 foot-candles
• Use: Measure intensity at leaf level
• Calibration: Zero-reset function

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Drip Irrigation Kit

• Coverage: Up to 25 plants per kit
• Pressure: 15-40 PSI compatibility
• Timer: Battery-operated with 6 programs

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Pruning Shears

• Blade type: High-carbon steel
• Cut capacity: 0.75-inch (1.9 cm) stems
• Grip: Non-slip ergonomic handle

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Frost Blanket

• Material: Polypropylene fabric (1.5 oz/sq yd)
• Protection: Safeguards plants down to 24°F (-4°C)
• Installation: Secure with landscape staples

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Soil Moisture Meter

• Probe length: 7.8 inches (20 cm)
• Readings: 1-10 scale (dry to wet)
• Calibration: Automatic sensor calibration

Yellow leaves with green veins indicate a lack of iron - something I learned after losing 10 plants. You can fix this by dissolving 1 Tablespoon of chelated iron found at your garden store into 1 gallon of water and applying it once a week. A blood meal is superior to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers. Eggshells can also be crushed and added to soil for a boost of calcium.

Organic pest management helped me protect my *Seascape* strawberries from being decimated. I was able to control slugs with neem oil and diatomaceous earth without using pesticides. For severe aphid infestations, I release ladybugs in the late evening when they become active and let them go to work. They will each consume over fifty aphids per day! I have used spinosad insect sprays to kill pests more rapidly, but these chemicals will harm pollinators along the way.

Improper pruning is an easy way to spread disease.I started sterilizing my sheers with 70% isopropyl alcohol between cuts after I accidentally transferred gray mold from one plant to a seemingly healthy plant. When pruning stems, I cut at 45-degree angles and at least ¼ inch above the node. Remember, ragged tears in the stem open the door for pathogens that can wipe out entire rows.

Root rot flourishes in wet soil. Check for moisture by inserting a finger 2 inches deep - if your finger gets wet then wait. Given that I had clay soil, I have raised beds with 30% perlite. Overwatered plants limp and droop for the right reasons when their roots are drowning and can no longer absorb moisture. Change over to drip lines right away.

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Soil Test Kit

• Range: 3.5-9.0 pH accuracy
• Tests: N-P-K + iron levels
• Frequency: Test every 60 days

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Diatomaceous Earth

• Application: Dust leaves after rain
• Safety: Non-toxic to pets
• Coverage: 1 lb / 453g per 50 sq ft

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Pruning Shears

• Sterilization: Soak in 70% alcohol for 5 mins
• Cut angle: 45-degree cuts above nodes
• Capacity: 0.5-inch / 1.3 cm stems

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Copper Fungicide

• Dosage: 2 tbsp / 30 mL per gallon
• Frequency: Apply every 7-14 days
• Safety: Wear gloves during application

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Shade Cloth

• Density: 30% UV blockage for strawberries
• Installation: Suspend 3 ft / 0.9 m above plants
• Timing: Use June-August in hot climates

Pick strawberries when they are evenly red with a little bit of yield - the sweetest sugar levels peak after 24 hours of the berry being uniformly colored. I like to sample tastiness by taking one berry from each cluster process. Underripe fruit will always read under 8°Brix on my refractometer. Berries will begin to lose their acidity and become mushy.

While refrigeration extends shelf life, it dulls flavor. For a maximum of 5 days, unwashed berries (both cultivated and wild) can be kept in vented containers to allow moisture escape - their ideally kept at 34 - 38°F. Storing berries at room temperature is acceptable if you plan to eat them that day - I lost a pint of berries to mold after leaving them on the counter overnight. Cold temperatures numb the volatile esters that release Aroma.

If done correctly, freezing locks in flavor. You must freeze dry the berries in a tray to make them solid before putting them in a bag (my vacuum-sealed *Albion* strawberries tasted just-picked after eight months in the freezer). Sugar pack methods (1 cup of berries to ¾ cup sugar) keep texture for pies. Don't blanch the berries; they will turn into mush!

Different preservation methods have very specific effects on texture. Dried slices become chewiness but concentrate sweetness, these find their way to using them in granola. Jams and jellies transform berries into a soft texture for spreading. My batch made with the lower pectin *Mara des Bois*, didn't thicken but stayed runny and pourable. Freezing whole berries preserves them in a shape that works well in smoothies. Use the method that works with your recipe and culinary goal.

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Berry Containers

• Material: Food-grade PET plastic
• Capacity: 1-pint (473 mL) size
• Design: Stackable with airflow holes

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Dehydrator Trays

• Non-stick coating: PFOA-free
• Spacing: 0.5-inch (1.3 cm) gaps
• Cleaning: Dishwasher-safe

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Canning Kit

• Includes: Jar lifter, funnel, lid wand
• Jar size: 8-oz (237 mL) recommended
• Safety: Pressure canner not required

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Freezer Bags

• Thickness: 2 mil (0.05 mm)
• Seal: Double zipper closure
• Capacity: 1-gallon (3.8 L)

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Fermentation Weights

• Size: Fits wide-mouth jars
• Material: Lead-free soda-lime glass
• Care: Boil sanitize before use

Strawberries are a fun and rewarding crop even for beginner gardeners. Start small-a 5-plant container can yield more than a pint of strawberries. My initial attempt closely resembled an episode of "Too Many Ingredients". I attained success by sticking to the basics: sun, drainage, and some patience. Strawberries will take care of the rest if you allow them to do so.

Healthy plants can yield for three or more years with proper care and maintenance. Beds can be renovated yearly by thinning overcrowded roots (as extensively as halfway) and fertilizing. Year 4 of my original *Seascape* plants: they are still producing! (Just goes to show the benefits of regular care...) Only replace when the production of fruit drops noticeably.

Don't be afraid to experiment. Try growing alpine types in hanging baskets or try day-neutral in gutters. I grow *Mara des Bois* vertically on my patio menu. I squeezed 18 plants into 4 sq ft. The varieties extend the harvest period, give you seedlings, and give you information about what does well in your microclimate.