How to Grow Mint: Expert Tips for Thriving Plants

Understanding how to grow mint first requires recognizing its ability to serve many purposes. In addition to improving flavor in dishes and teas, mint is a pleasant-smelling herb that also repels aphids and other pests. If you are a beginner, you will find that mint is forgiving to grow but you will have to learn to contain its aggressive roots. I learned this lesson the hard way when Mint took over my first garden.

Mint grows well in USDA zones three through eleven, making it suitable for nearly all climates. To prevent mint from taking over the yard, begin your mint plants in a deep container. I like to use fourteen-inch pots with holes for drainage. Fill the pots with potting mix, mixed with perlite, to keep the roots from intertwining and overwhelming neighboring plants.

Position pots so that the morning sun gives warmth to the leaves, but the afternoon shade protects them from burning. Water the pot when the top inch of soil is dry. Rotate containers once a week to promote even growth. My kitchen window mint lasts longer than the same outdoor mint because the light and airflow are consistent inside.

When it comes to mint varieties, it requires a careful exploration of flavor and climate demands. Peppermint is the most common mint. Peppermint has a strong menthol flavor that is exceptionally good for tea in the cooler USDA growing zones 5-9. Apple mint has a smaller flavor profile with very mild fruit flavor notes. It is very adaptable in cooler USDA growing zones 4-10 and can grow in partial shade as well. Make sure to always match leaf variegation to the available sunlight.

Variegated leaves indicate that the plant is likely to be sensitive to heat. For example, pineapple mint has cream-colored edges and will scorch in full afternoon sun, making shade cloth necessary in zones 7-11. The solid green-leafed varieties, such as spearmint, will thrive in full sun. I lost two varieties of mint before learning that leaf color often indicated placement; I now group my mint by color.

In edible gardens, it is important to avoid pennyroyal mint, as it poses a danger to humans and animals when consumed, and the health risks outweigh the potential benefit of it to repel pests. Only use the culinary safe forms of mint, such as chocolate mint or orange mint for USDA growing zones 3-9. Always check the nursery labels to verify that they are USDA compatible, as I once had a fiasco with my herb bed due to a mislabeled product.

Knowing how to grow mint starts with seeds or cuttings. Although mint seeds brought excitement with 40-50% germination rates, cuttings produced an 80-90% success rate of growing mint, a much better choice if you want guaranteed results. I spent weeks waiting for seeds before converting to cuttings, which grew roots within seven days.

Collect cuttings either in spring or early summer, at which time the plants are pushing out new growth. Snip off a 4-inch piece, below a leaf node, on each of the stems. You can bypass using synthetic rooting hormones, and instead, soak some willow twigs in water overnight, to make your natural rooting hormone. I learned this trick from my grandmother, who had cuttings sprouting roots prolifically.

If taste is important, stay away from hybrid seeds. Most hybrids lose their unique flavors after generations. Herb cuttings are genetic clones, my chocolate mint is as delicious year after year. Be sure to label your pots if you are experimenting with seeds to see what varieties grow best in your climate!

The pH of the soil is vital to the survival of mint plants. Most types will grow well in a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0; therefore, it is advisable to check the pH monthly. If the soil is alkaline, citrus mixes or pine needles may need to be added for peppermint species. Variegated mints like pineapple mint need a pH of 6.5 to maintain their leaf patterns.

Sunlight depends on mint varieties. Varieties with solid leaves, like peppermint, can take full sun in zones 3-8. Variegated types will burn in direct sunlight if they don't have afternoon shade. My balcony's pineapple mint loves being under 30% shade cloth, while spearmint planted in the ground enjoys 8 hours of direct light each day.

To prevent root rot, allow the soil to dry a bit between watering. Plants in containers must have drainage holes and use a heavy gritty mix, I use perlite mixed with commercial potting soil. For plants in the ground, slope the beds away from the roots or use raised rows during periods of rain.

Microclimates change mint success. My pots allowed me to move my plants when faced with intense winds or frost pockets. In summer, mulching your ground-planted mint with straw or hay can help retain moisture. In winter, pots should be insulated with bubble wrap. My terracotta containers cracked before I learned to do this.

Drainage holes are necessary in mint containers. Without this drainage, roots drown; I know this because I lost three plants to waterlogged soil. Use pots with at least five 1/4 inch holes and set them on feet or gravel to avoid water from collecting.

When comparing terracotta and plastic pots, terracotta has a massive breathability advantage over plastic and ensures roots do not rot in humid climates. Terracotta pots have porous walls that breathe and draw excess moisture from the soil, but they will dry the soil faster than plastic pots! Plastic pots are moister-retaining pots ideal for hot and dry climates, but they can make you overwater. I have mint that lives in a terracotta pot, and I check it every day during the summer!

Every six months it's a good idea to prune the roots to prevent binding. To do this, simply slide the mint out of the pot and then slice the root mass vertically with a knife. You can then replant each half in a new pot. Although this seems harsh, in my case this tough approach watered the baby, and within two weeks the stunted plant was flourishing with new shoots and a doubled harvest!

Be careful with companion planting in pots: mint is very aggressive and competes well for life support (water, nutrients, and space) with most herbs. If you plant it with thyme or oregano, you can use a plant container that is a bit wider and divided. Do not plant it with tomatoes or basil, as the root systems of these plants cannot handle the aggressiveness of mint. When possible, I like to use separate pots, but group the pots together for visual coordination.

Discolored leaves are indicators of nutrient deficiencies. Yellowing of the leaves occurring between the veins usually indicates an iron deficiency, especially in alkaline soils. Test the pH monthly. Dilution of coffee grounds sprayed on the leaf provides a quick fix. My mint responded in a few days once I sprayed the chlorotic plants with diluted coffee grounds.

Mint in a pot that has become root-bound can lead to stunted growth. Observe the bottom of the container to see if you can see any roots circling the bottom. If you find roots circling, you can tease them apart gently - use your fingers to pry the root ball apart or slice vertically down the root ball with a knife. Then repot it with fresh mix with perlite. I saved a plant that was struggling this way; I noticed new shoots coming up within a week!

Drought stress will crisp the edges of leaves, whereas overwatering will yellow an entire leaf. To check if a plant needs watering, stick a finger in the soil up to about 2 inches; if the soil feels dry, water deeply. If the soil is too soggy, stop watering the plant for 3 days. My balcony mint plants nearly died after I watered them repeatedly until I learned to lift the pot to check weight.

Do not apply chemicals to edible herbs. Soapy water (1 tsp dish soap per quart) works to eliminate aphids. Neem oil can be used to combat spider mites without altering flavor. I spray the neem or soapy water at dusk to avoid sunburn and so far my plants are pest-free and safe to use in fluid or as garnishes.

Mint's adaptability renders it a gardener's best friend from USDA zones 3 to 11. Whether you're dealing with frost, heat, or otherwise, this herb is tough enough to thrive. I've wintered peppermint in an unheated garage in January and I have grown apple mint in desert heat and both have generally done just fine with nothing more than some attention and care.

Seeds provide a lot of options while cuttings give you some assurance. I've had chocolate mint from cuttings for five years that tasted the same, but my chocolate mint grown from seed lost its taste after a few years. If this is your first time with propagation, ask a friend for a cutting to begin with. This way you can bypass the germination phase, which can be uncertain, and you can count on receiving the taste you anticipate.

Containers are an absolute necessity for a sustainable growing culture. Use 12-inch pots with drainage holes so you can place them on stands to avoid any escape. I often put nursery pots inside decorative pots, so I can always check roots without disturbing the decorative pots. For example, I now enjoy a mint patch that does not invade my lettuce beds.

Start with one 6-inch pot of spearmint (Mentha spicata). Mix three parts (3:1, potting mix to perlite) and keep the pot by a morning sun window. Each week, snip the leaves to encourage bushiness. Once you are able to harvest the first of the spearmint your first time growing mint, you'll know you have succeeded! and you can try growing mojito mint or a lemon balm hybrid later!