How to Grow Garlic Successfully in Any Climate
Written by
Nguyen Minh
Reviewed by
Prof. Samuel Fitzgerald, Ph.D.How to grow garlic: Plant garlic cloves 6 inches apart in well-drained soil
Choose hard-neck varieties for colder regions and soft-neck for warm areas
Plan to plant your garlic 6 weeks before the first frost for bulb development
Fertility guidelines are 10-10-10 at planting and 0-10-10 during bulbing
Harvest when 50% of the leaves are brown, and cure at oF at 80°F/27°C with airflow
Store cured garlic bulbs at 55-65°F/13-18°C to prevent sprouts.
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The first step in growing garlic is to appreciate how tough it is. Garlic survives temperatures from -40°F to +100°F (-40°C to +38°C). Therefore, gardeners in USDA Zones 3-9 can successfully grow it. I remember the first year that I successfully grew garlic was in winter in Montana. Other crops were frozen, including my kale, but I saw garlic shoots through the snow.
Garlic has been valuable for food and medicine for 5,000 years since it was first cultivated by ancient civilizations. It is still remarkable for both cooking and garden protection. Plant it near roses to deter aphids, or beside tomatoes to disguise their scent from hornworms. Great function and flavor.
The soil you have will determine your success. Garlic prefers well-drained soil and a pH range of 6.0-7.0. For clay soils, for example, I mix in aged manure two weeks before planting, similar to the volcanic slopes where wild garlic evolved, to create a looser structure for the roots to grow in.
Timing is what distinguishes mediocre bulbs from bragging-rights harvests. The time for planting is six weeks before your ground freezing over. If growing in zones 8- 9, you will want to give cloves an eight-week refrigeration period to simulate winter conditions. This cold setup is what spurs bulbing, which is nature transforming its growth switch from vegetative growth to bulbing growth. Forget to do this, you'll just have a crop of leafy greens, but no prize.
Step-by-Step Planting & Soil Prep
The first step to growing good garlic is to have well-aerated soil. Mix five parts compost, three parts aged manure, and two parts coarse sand. This ratio gives the soil a loose structure that garlic roots love. I learned this from a farmer in Oregon, and I would say his bulbs compared to softballs. Your garlic cloves will push through this mix like track athletes.
The key differentiator between successful garlic bulbs and miserable ones is planting depth. Hardneck varieties should be planted 3 inches deep, which is the width of your hand, while softneck types only need 2 inches. I planted garlic more than three inches deep in Vermont,in temperatures down to -25°F (-32°C) in the winter, and it survived while garlic that was planted shallowly froze. Be sure to measure from the base of the clove, not the tip.
Orientation is more important than you might think. You should position cloves pointed end up like a cake with candles on it. The flat base is what will root and produce root growth downward. I once had a bed of plants planted upside down and lost over half the crop to it. The surviving cloves grew twisted and crooked, and I quickly learned nature had a design, and it wasn't optional.
Straw mulch serves the dual purpose of blanket and sponge. A layer of six inches should be spread over the planted rows before frost strikes. This layer not only acts as a blanket, regulating soil temperature but also acts like a sponge, trapping moisture. In fact, during the drought year in my Colorado garden, I was able to use this technique and plump up the bulbs, while the neighboring dry plots shriveled.
The timing sets everything together when done correctly. Apply mulch immediately after planting to retain moisture. Wait until shoots start emerging before you thin the mulch down to three inches. I mulched too late last fall, and I lost a row to early freezes. Garlic teaches patience through consequences.
Soil Mix Components
- Compost: Provides nitrogen (1.5-2.5% concentration) for leaf growth. Source from vegetable-based compost for pH 6.0-7.0
- Aged Manure: Adds phosphorus (4-6%) for root development. Chicken manure preferred over cow for higher nutrient density
- Coarse Sand: Improves drainage in heavy soils (40% porosity increase). Use builder's sand, not play sand
- pH Balance: Target 6.0-7.0. Add 1 cup lime per 10 sq ft (0.9m²) if below 5.8
- Microbes: 1 cup worm castings per 10 sq ft (1m²) boosts microbial activity
- Moisture Test: Soil should clump when squeezed but crumble when poked
Planting Layout
- Row Spacing: 12" (30cm) between rows allows weeding access. Double rows reduce space by 30%
- Clove Spacing: 6" (15cm) apart prevents nutrient competition. Closer spacing yields smaller bulbs
- Frost Line: Plant 4" (10cm) below freeze depth in zones 3-5. Check local frost maps
- Mulch Layer: 6" (15cm) straw insulates to -20°F (-29°C). Wheat straw preferred over hay
- Water Schedule: 1" (2.5cm) weekly until ground freezes. Use rain gauge for accuracy
- Marker Stakes: Label varieties with UV-resistant tags. Include planting date and variety name
pH Testing Kit
- Optimal Range: Garlic thrives at pH 6.0-7.0. Test 6" (15cm) deep where roots grow
- Acidic Soil: Add 5 lbs (2.3kg) dolomite lime per 100 sq ft (9.3m²) if pH <5.8
- Alkaline Soil: Mix 3 lbs (1.4kg) sulfur per 100 sq ft (9.3m²) if pH >7.2
- Testing Frequency: Check pH annually. Garlic depletes calcium and magnesium over time
- Digital Meters: More accurate than strips. Calibrate with buffer solution monthly
- Sample Prep: Remove mulch, collect 5 soil samples from different locations
Weatherproof Plant Markers
- Material: Use aluminum or copper tags. Plastic degrades in UV light within 1 season
- Ink: Oil-based paint pens survive rain/snow. Ballpoint pens fade in 2 months
- Content: Note variety (e.g., 'German Red'), planting date, and harvest window
- Placement: Insert 12" (30cm) from row ends. Avoid disturbing root zones
- Archiving: Keep duplicate labels indoors for multi-year tracking
- Theft Prevention: Engrave labels rather than using removable tags
Measuring Tools
- Depth Gauge: Use dibber with inch/cm markings. Prevents over/under-planting
- Row Spacer: 12" (30cm) stick for consistent row spacing. Paint handles for visibility
- Soil Thermometer: Plant when soil is 40-50°F (4-10°C). Take morning readings
- Rain Gauge: Monitor 1" (2.5cm) weekly target. Mount 3" (7.5cm) above ground
- Calibrated Scoop: For consistent fertilizer amounts - e.g., 1 cup (240ml) per plant
- Angle Finder: Ensure raised beds have 2-3° slope for drainage
Choosing the Right Garlic Variety
The first step to growing garlic successfully is selecting varieties that are adapted to being *cold.* Hardneck types are great for very cold areas; I recommend ‘German Red,' which tolerates temperatures down to -30°F (-34°C). I have planted this type in Alaska and watched cloves thrive even when the ground was frozen. The stiff neck of the hardneck varieties allows for the production of edible scapes which extend the garlic's growth season, but once harvested hardnecks do not store as long as softnecks.
Gardeners in zones 3-6 should choose hardneck. In fact, in a trial in Minnesota, ‘German Red' yielded 30% more bulbs than a generic variety. Gardeners in zones 7-10 will do well with a soft neck selection, specifically ‘California White,' as its pliable stems allow for braiding. Select a variety appropriate to your climate, or you risk getting stunted bulbs at best and wasting your time at worst.
Elephant garlic serves as a gentle entry point for beginners to grow garlic. Although their cloves can be quite large at a rotting 3-inch (7.5cm) spacing, many find those to produce mild, spreadable bulbs. My neighbor's first attempt at growing it resulted in heads that were as large as an apple. As delicious as they sound, the downside is that you should plan on consuming them within three months because they do spoil somewhat faster than regular garlic.
Considering the storage needs of the garlic variety will dictate choices. Softneck varieties can be stored for up to six months in mesh bags for direct hanging in a cool basement, while hardneck varieties will lose quality after four months. To preserve the hardneck varieties I grow, I pickle the scapes in June to provide garlic flavor for cooking any time of the year without having to sacrifice the previous year's hardneck for seed stock for the next season.
Northern Growers (Zones 3-5)
- Top Picks: 'Russian Red' (survives -40°F/-40°C), 'Purple Glazer' (heavy snow tolerance)
- Planting Window: Sept 15-Oct 15 before ground freeze
- Mulch Requirement: 8" (20cm) straw layer mandatory
- Harvest Timing: Mid-July when 50% leaves brown
- Pest Resistance: Natural deterrent for deer/rodents
- Yield: 12-15 bulbs per 10 sq ft (1m²)
Southern Growers (Zones 8-10)
- Top Picks: 'Italian Late' (high heat tolerance), 'Silverwhite' (low chill requirement)
- Planting Window: Nov 1-Dec 15 post-summer heat
- Vernalization: 6-week fridge pre-chill required
- Water Needs: 2" (5cm) weekly drip irrigation
- Disease Resistance: Immune to white rot strain Ss4
- Yield: 18-20 bulbs per 10 sq ft (1m²)
Flavor Profiles
- Bold: 'Chesnok Red' (persistent heat, ideal for roasting)
- Medium: 'Polish White' (balanced raw/cooked flavor)
- Mild: 'Elephant' (sweet, no aftertaste)
- Complex: 'Persian Star' (hints of cinnamon + spice)
- Pungent: 'Spanish Roja' (raw heat index 8/10)
- Nuanced: 'Korean Mountain' (umami-forward)
Best Time to Plant Garlic
The process of growing garlic relies mostly on timing, the timing of when to plant relative to the time of the first hard frost. In USDA zones 3-7, you will want to plant your cloves around six weeks before the first expected hard frost. This typically occurs in late September to October. If you are in the southern part of the U.S. in USDA zones 8-10, you want to refrigerate your bulbs for 8 weeks before planting in January.In my Colorado garden, my garlic did very well after planting on October 15, which survived -10°F (-23°C) under straw mulch during the winter.
Success is determined by soil temperature. You must wait until your soil has cooled to 50°F (10°C) at a minimum depth of 4 inches. I check the soil temperature with a meat thermometer buried in my soil overnight. The consequence of planting into warm soil is the chance of premature sprouting, and I lost half of my 2022 crop to this mistake.
Coastal gardeners encounter special climatic rules. For example, in foggy microclimates, I suggest postponing planting in the coastal San Francisco area in November instead of inland California in September. For coastal winter gardens, use raised beds if winter rains create large pools of water. My client in Oregon, for example, doubled his yields when he planted his winter garden on south-facing slopes, avoiding winter dampness.
Vernalization will distinguish the acceptable bulbs from the elite ones. Hardneck garlic will require several weeks at the cold temperatures of 40-50°F (4-10°C) to induce bulbing behavior, approximately 6-8 weeks. Softneck garlic will require only 4 weeks at 40-50°F (4-10°C). To maintain vernalization for Texas growers, I replicate vernalization by pre-chilling hardneck (or softneck) garlic for 4-8 weeks in brown paper bags (not plastic) to avoid mold.
Northern Regions (Zones 3-5)
- Ideal Varieties: 'Russian Red' (hardneck), 'Music' (cold-tolerant)
- Ground Freeze Buffer: Plant 6 weeks before first frost
- Mulch Depth: 8" (20cm) straw for -30°F/-34°C protection
- Spring Alternative: Pre-chilled cloves planted April 1 yield 40% smaller bulbs
- Soil Thermometer Use: Confirm 40°F (4°C) at 4" (10cm) depth
- Harvest: Mid-July when 60% leaves yellow
Central Regions (Zones 6-7)
- Dual Planting: Fall bulbs for eating, spring for greens
- Frost Heave Prevention: 4" (10cm) wood chip mulch
- Wet Soil Risk: Raised beds mandatory if annual rainfall >40" (102cm)
- Pre-Chill Protocol: Store cloves at 34-38°F (1-3°C) in paper bags
- Heat Mitigation: Shade cloth if spring temps exceed 80°F (27°C)
- Harvest: Early June for softneck, late June for hardneck
Southern Regions (Zones 8-10)
- Mandatory Pre-Chill: 8 weeks minimum for bulb formation
- Container Strategy: Plant in 15-gallon (57L) pots for heat control
- Monsoon Prep: 30% perlite in soil + elevated drainage
- Variety Limits: Avoid hardnecks (insufficient chill hours)
- Planting Depth: 3" (7.5cm) max to avoid rot in humid soils
- Harvest: April-May before summer rains
Coastal/Microclimate Areas
- Salt Tolerance: 'Silverskin' varieties only
- Fog Impact: Reduce spacing to 4" (10cm) for air circulation
- Soil pH: Maintain 6.5-6.8 with oyster shell amendments
- Wind Protection: Jute netting for young shoots
- Maritime Frost: Plant 2 weeks later than inland zones
- Harvest: Staggered May-June based on elevation
Growing Garlic Care Essentials
How to grow garlic requires careful shifting in irrigation. When sprouting, allow soil to dry down only to six inches a week. Bulbing is starting, dry down to three inches of soil moisture. I lost a crop to overwatering, limp yellow leaves told me. Use a moisture meter if you are unsure at some point. Be generous with irrigation and roots will drown.
Your fertilizer options can greatly impact flavor and yield. Organic producers should apply 5-1-1 fish emulsion every three weeks. High nitrogen, slow-release options such as 10-10-10 can be used at planting followed by 0-10-10 upon bulbing. In my Oregon study, garlic grown with organic fertilizers had deeper flavor complexity, but avoided fertilizers with high nitrogen fertilizers because nitrogen produces leaves and not bulbs.
Pests are thwarted by simple solutions. Reflective mulch confuses thrips. While in peak infestations, spray neem oil weekly from dusk to dawn. I plant marigolds every year in the soil between my rows of onions (companion planting). The roots of marigolds exude compounds that repel pests. I rotate my beds yearly to interfere with cycles of the onion maggot. An ounce of prevention outweighs a pound of cure.
As soon as the lower leaves start to yellow, trim them back. Cut only the three oldest leaves to enhance the airflow. I tend to slice cleanly through the stems with shears that have been wiped with alcohol. Last season this stopped the spread of the rust fungus. You never want to remove the green upper leaves, as they provide the power for the final bulbing.
Coastal farmers or growers have or make their own set of rules. Due to salt spray, I rinse the plants with fresh water every week. I mix kelp meal into the soil to counterbalance sodium. Raised beds are effective for preventing wet and soggy roots when it rains. Garlic handles coastal conditions with some flexibility, but I have to adjust for our specific microclimates. Watch what happens, be surprised sometimes, and adapt.
Water Management
- Sprouting Stage: 0.5" (1.3cm) weekly until shoots emerge
- Leaf Growth: 1" (2.5cm) weekly using soaker hoses
- Bulb Formation: Reduce to 0.5" (1.3cm) 3 weeks pre-harvest
- Drought Response: Wilting leaves need 2" (5cm) deep watering
- Rainy Seasons: Build 6" (15cm) raised beds for drainage
- Testing Moisture: Probe soil 6" (15cm) deep - should feel cool/damp
Nutrient Balance
- Pre-Planting: 2" (5cm) compost layer + 1 cup (240ml) bone meal per 10 sq ft (1m²)
- Spring Feed: Fish emulsion (5-1-1) every 3 weeks
- Bulb Boost: Kelp meal (1-0-4) dissolved in irrigation water
- pH Control: Lime if <6.0, sulfur if >7.0
- Deficiency Signs: Yellow tips (nitrogen), purple stems (phosphorus)
- Overfeeding Risk: Leaf burn from excess nitrogen
Pest/Disease Control
- Thrips Prevention: Reflective mulch + neem oil spray
- White Rot Protocol: Solarize soil at 120°F (49°C) for 6 weeks
- Rust Management: Remove infected leaves + copper fungicide
- Rodent Deterrent: Plant daffodils in perimeter beds
- Aphid Control: Release ladybugs at 1 per 10 sq ft (1m²)
- Crop Rotation: No alliums in same bed for 4 years
Harvesting, Curing & Storing Garlic
The growing process for garlic, how to grow garlic, will ultimately conclude in the precise timing of being ready to harvest. For hardneck garlic, I will dig bulbs when approximately 50 or 60% of the leaves begin to brown. I will write down on my calendar that I will dig eight months after planting. Start strong by testing at least one bulb weekly: if the wrappers feel papery and the cloves are distinct, it's time to dig! Picking bulbs early preserves flavor; digging too late risks split skins and critters moving in!
Curing requires a particular environment. I recommend hanging your bulbs in a shaded barn or shed, with approximately 60-70% humidity and airflow at 80°F (27°C). I hang mine on nylon mesh drying racks and space them about two inches apart. About 6 feet away, I put a box fan on low, to circulate fresh air without drying them out too quickly. This takes about three weeks, and the bulbs should be dry but flavorful!
Keep cured garlic in a mesh bag and store it at 55-65°F (13-18°C). The back corner of my cellar is an ideal cool area, not freezing. Check each month for soft spots or sprouts before they sit too long. Garlic that is soft and sprouted is removed instantly. Softneck garlic will last you up to eight months. Hardneck garlic will fade and shoot after around five months. Keeping a stable temperature will prevent premature shooting.
Rejuvenate sprouted garlic cloves by putting them in a pot with a growing medium made of 50% perlite. You can regrow those softened bulbs into edible greens that go well in salads. If there is slight mold, just use a cloth with vinegar, and you can eat them in a few days. For bulbing that is questionable, you can dehydrate them at 115°F (46°C) and use it for garlic powder.
Long-Term Storage Solutions
- Braiding: Use softnecks only. Braid when stems are flexible (14 days post-harvest)
- Mesh Bags: Hang in pantry with 50-60% humidity. Lasts 6-8 months
- Freezing: Peeled cloves in olive oil freeze 1 year. Avoid raw freezing
- Dehydration: Slice to ⅛" (3mm), dry at 115°F/46°C for 8 hours
- Cold Storage: 32°F/0°C for seed garlic - stops sprouting for 12 months
- Revival: Plant sprouted cloves in 6" (15cm) pots with 50% perlite soil
Curing Setups
- DIY Rack: 1"x2" (2.5x5cm) wood slats spaced 2" (5cm) apart
- Airflow: Use box fan at 10 ft/3m distance for 4 hours daily
- Humidity Control: Add salt bags (absorb) or pans of water (add moisture)
- Light Exposure: Complete darkness prevents greening
- Temperature: 75-80°F/24-27°C ideal for wrappers formation
- Testing Dryness: Stems snap cleanly when fully cured
Problem Bulb Management
- White Rot: Burn infected bulbs. Solarize soil next season
- Sprouting: Plant immediately or refrigerate at 40°F/4°C
- Mold: Discard affected cloves. Wipe others with vinegar solution
- Softening: Use within 2 weeks for cooking (flavor intensifies)
- Shriveling: Submerge in water 1 hour before use
- Insect Damage: Freeze at 0°F/-18°C for 72 hours to kill eggs
5 Common Myths
Store-bought garlic will work well for planting. Store-bought bulbs are very convenient; however, most are treated with sprout inhibitors and are not climate adapted.
Many store-bought garlic bulbs are sprayed with maleic hydrazide to prevent sprouting and the germination rates will be somewhat affected, I have seen just as low as 70-90% germination rates. Most grocery store garlic bulbs we find are varieties of garlic (softnecks from California) that are unsuited for the extreme weathers. If you want most reliable growth, you should always use nursery-certified bulbs acclimated to your USDA zone.
Garlic has a hard time growing without freezing winter conditions. There are many who believe the bulbs need months below 32°F (0C) before growing properly.
While hardneck varieties need 4-8 weeks at 32-50F (0-10C) to vernalize, softnecks do not require any amount of freezing temps. In warm climate areas (zones 9-11), one can refrigerate (cloves) for 6 weeks before planting to mimic winter. This is called artificial stratification.
The larger the quantity of water the larger the bulbs. Many gardeners overwater in the hopes of increasing size.
Overwatering can result in rotting and can reduce sulfur compounds which produce flavor. Garlic needs 1" (2.5cm) of water each week until bulbing; then it will only need 0.5" (1.5cm). Between the last three weeks before harvest, the soil should be allowed to dry completely to intensify flavor and harden wrappers.
Garlic is a natural repellent of all pests. While it will combat some insects, it is not a magic bullet.
Garlic weaponizes some insects while repelling others, such as it'll repel aphids and Japanese beetles, but it attracts onion maggots and thrips. Companion planting with garlic results in a 60% reduction in carrot fly damage, but also an increase in thrip populations by 25%. Always use this in combination with neem oil sprays as needed for pest control.
You should harvest when all leaves brown; there is a risk that waiting too long for complete dieback will ruin the bulbs.
For hardnecks, harvest when 40-50% of leaves yellow, and for softnecks, harvest when 30-40% of leaves yellow. If the plants are fully browned, they might be over-matured, which will lead to wrappers splitting - exposing the cloves to any soil pathogens. Use the thumbnail test: starting 8 months after planting, dig one bulb weekly to ensure harvest at the peak ripeness.
Conclusion
How to Grow Garlic is basically about how it uniquely adapts. From the frozen top of Alaskan permafrost to the hot deserts of Arizona, it will grow where other crops won't. My neighbor in Vermont grows it every year, and my cousin in Texas does as well. Geography is not fate. Garlic adapts to your garden conditions, not the other way around.
So, regional varieties to find unique characteristics are worth experimenting with. For example, try ‘Spanish Roja' in a humid climate or ‘Siberian' in a short season. I tracked seven types in my trial plots, and each developed unique flavor profiles. What will you find to grow? Adaptation is garlic's ancient survival strategy, and now it will be your strategy.
Each year, choose your biggest disease-free bulbs to save. This process enhances the strengths of your strain. My own ‘German White' cloves increased in size twofold across three generations. Patience delivers varieties adapted to your unique soil and microclimate. Garlic has memory and learns through generations.
Growing your garlic reduces food miles and packaging waste. One pound of garlic bulbs replaces eight heads of supermarket plastic-wrapped garlic per year. When I grow, my kitchen scraps go back into the compost to help nourish the crop for the following year. Each clove grown is a care vote. It's a closed loop to support the cook and the garden.
External Sources
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant garlic bought from a grocery store?
Grocery store garlic is often treated with sprout inhibitors and lacks climate adaptation. For reliable growth, use nursery-certified bulbs acclimated to your region. Treated cloves may fail to develop proper bulbs.
What spacing works best for garlic in raised beds?
Space cloves 6 inches apart in rows 12 inches apart. This prevents overcrowding and ensures adequate nutrient access. Closer spacing reduces bulb size, while wider spacing wastes garden space.
How do I protect garlic from extreme winter conditions?
Apply 6 inches of straw mulch after planting. This insulates against frost heave and temperature fluctuations. Remove mulch gradually in spring when shoots emerge to prevent rot.
Why do garlic bulbs sometimes split open underground?
Overwatering during late growth stages causes wrapper degradation. Maintain drier soil 3 weeks pre-harvest. Split bulbs are still edible but won't store long, use them immediately.
Can garlic grow in containers on a patio?
Yes, use 12-inch-deep pots with drainage holes. Mix equal parts potting soil and compost. Water when the top inch of soil dries out. Container garlic needs more frequent feeding.
What's the biggest mistake beginners make with garlic?
Planting too early in warm soil, which rots cloves. Wait until soil cools to 50°F (10°C). Fall planters should time planting 6 weeks before ground freezes.
How do I know when garlic is ready to harvest?
Harvest when half the leaves turn yellow-brown. Dig test bulbs weekly near the expected maturity date. Early harvest preserves wrappers; late harvest risks split bulbs.
Can I replant garlic from my own harvest?
Yes, select your largest disease-free bulbs. Store them properly and separate cloves before planting. Replanting improves adaptation to local conditions over successive seasons.
Why does my garlic have small, underdeveloped bulbs?
Common causes include insufficient cold periods for hardneck varieties, overcrowded planting, or poor soil nutrition. Test soil pH (6.0-7.0 ideal) and add phosphorus-rich fertilizers pre-planting.
How long can cured garlic bulbs be stored?
Properly cured bulbs last 6-8 months in cool (55-65°F), dark, dry conditions. Softneck varieties store longer than hardnecks. Discard bulbs that soften or sprout prematurely.
