How should I prepare my garden hydrangea for winter?
Written by
Liu Xiaohui
Reviewed by
Prof. Samuel Fitzgerald, Ph.D.Acclimating your garden hydrangeas for winter involves some detailed information. The old wood bloomers (e.g., Bigleaf varieties) will benefit from heavier protection. Conversely, new wood types (e.g., Panicle hydrangeas) will contend with winter with little to no insulation. Again, the hardiness zone drives that entire process. I typically start preparing when the temperatures stay consistently under 50°F.
Deep Root Watering
- Timing: Water deeply 48 hours before first freeze
- Method: Slow soaking until moisture reaches 12 inches deep
- Benefit: Creates insulation against root freeze damage
Protective Mulching
- Material: Hardwood bark for consistent temperature control
- Application: 4 inch layer in 12 inch diameter circle
- Caution: Maintain 2 inch clearance from stems
Wind Barrier Setup
- Construction: Burlap screens secured with stakes
- Placement: Angle against prevailing winds
- Height: Minimum 6 inches above plant top
Correct insulation methods depend on the type of hydrangea and the local climate. Old wood bloomers receive burlap wraps and straw stuffed inside, along with much-needed mulch, while new wood varieties may only require a simple mulch at the root zone to thrive. I modify materials as dictated by forecasted low temperatures, using my Zone 5 baseline.
Properly timed preparations will be safe. Set wind barriers before steady freezing temperatures set in. Mulching is done after deeply watering, but before the ground freezes. I monitor leaf drop for announcing dormancy. Your accuracy will protect buds for flowering in spring.
Avoid pitfalls such as late fertilization or improper wrapping. Any nitrogen applications made after August promote tender new growth. The tight plastic wraps caused condensation issues. I use breathable materials to encourage airflow. They saved my hydrangeas from unpredictable freezes.
Read the full article: Essential Hydrangea Winter Care Guide
