How does blade design differ between these pruners?
Written by
Nguyen Minh
Reviewed by
Prof. Charles Hartman, Ph.D.Blade shape is the primary feature that distinguishes bypass pruners from anvil pruners. In other words, blade configuration determines how it interacts with plant material. I have sharpened hundreds of pruners and know firsthand how blade design will influence cutting ability. Knowing these mechanical differences can help you select the appropriate tools.
Curved blades make up bypass pruners, which slide past each other like the action of more commonly known scissors. The one-bevel design produces a slicing action that works perfectly for live growth. Mine get adjusted weekly during the growing season (which is usually 5 or 6 months, depending on the weather). These blades are thin, measuring approximately 2-3mm, and require constant adjustment; however, they create a very precise cut on the stems or leaves being pruned.
Anvil pruners feature straight double-beveled blades that strike against a flat surface. This crushing mechanism allows for effortless cutting of deadwood. The blades are thicker and constructed to withstand the impact of cutting, so they require less frequent sharpening than those of our competitors. My orchard pruning tools last for months without sharpening and cut through oak branches with ease.
Bypass Sharpening Technique
- Maintain original 30-degree bevel angle
- Use diamond sharpener for precision
- Hone inner curve with round file
Anvil Blade Care
- Sharpen at 20-degree double bevel
- Flatten anvil surface annually
- Remove sap buildup after use
Performance Signs
- Bypass: Ragged cuts mean dull blades
- Anvil: Crushing instead of cutting
- Both: Increased hand strain
Material selection reflects the purpose of your blade. Bypass blades are made from harder steel alloys that maintain a sharp edge longer. Anvil blades are crafted from a range of highly shock-absorbing alloys that prioritize the blade's toughness. For example, I have a high-quality set of Felco brand bypass pruners that were able to maintain their edge through the vigorous use of a full rose garden season before needing some maintenance!
Identify the signs that your blades need replacement. Bypass blades display nicks from mistakenly running into a piece of deadwood. Anvil blades develop mushroomed edges by being used longer than their intended lifespan. I will replace blades every three years to maintain optimal performance. Properly caring for your tools will easily add years to their lifespan, allowing you to save money in the long term.
Read the full article: Bypass vs Anvil Pruners: Key Differences
