9 Effective Ways to Prevent Soil Erosion

Soil erosion is the detachment of topsoil by wind or water. This natural process reduces the quality of land and pollutes water bodies. It also impacts plants and animals. Without soil erosion control, productive fields can become useless in just a few months.

I've observed farms suffer multiple inches of valuable topsoil after just one heavy storm. That rich, dark-colored layer took a significant amount of geologic time to form. Without the topsoil, crops struggle to grow. Water is dirty, and wildlife becomes distressed. These consequences underscore the growing need to control erosion.

With your value permanence program, the options are extensive - you can use it alongside any of the options you choose in Tara - value permanence strategies. This can be as easy as planting, and it can be engineered. All options applied will protect against a multitude of natural disasters and make changes over time less drastic. You can read about them all below.

When dealing with slope erosion or large properties, often the initial attempts, such as DIY, will be ineffective. I have seen homeowners spend money on temporary gravel that gets washed away in one storm. Professionals are applying engineering solutions that will last decades. Their methods do an excellent job of protecting the valuable land from catastrophic loss.

Seeking expert help can save money over time. Repairs for severe erosion cost more than prevention. Experts calculate your break-even point. They have access to NRCS consultation to design the most efficient systems. This Federal service provides free plans based on your land needs.

Hydroseeding outperforms hand-seeding for quick solutions. This spray technique can cover areas of land in one day. It combines seed, mulch, and binder for immediate erosion control. The hand-seeded areas take weeks to become stabilized and withstand rain. The hydroseed mixture creates layers of protection immediately on soil that is prone to erosion.

Sheet and rill erosion begins when raindrops fall on bare soil. The impact of the raindrops loosens soil particles, and they are carried away in thin sheets or tiny rills until, as I have observed, the entire seedbed washes downslope after only one significant rain. Groundcovers and mulches keep this surface wash at bay by absorbing the energy of the rain.

Ephemeral gullies form along concentrated runoff flows. They cut 4 to 18 inches deep. Farmers simply till them away every season! And then they too reappear with the next storm as impermanent channels. On my uncle's property, we eliminated these ephemeral gullies by installing perennial grasses along the natural flows of surface water. Their roots kept the soil secure.

Tillage erosion occurs when equipment tows soil downhill. Once the soil has been loosened during plowing, gravity pulls dirt downward. Over the years, this has led to thinning of the topsoil on the slopes. In one Iowa field, I measured 6 inches of topsoil loss. Contour plowing and reduced tillage will keep soil in place, rather than tow soil on slopes across/cross slope, not down slope.

Each type of erosion requires different protection strategies. The best defense for sheet erosion is continuous plant cover. For gully erosion, install water diversions before planting. For tillage erosion, limit the number of equipment passes made when traveling down a slope. Protecting against erosion patterns with solutions that match, will offer you the protection you need. It protects your soil, as well as your investment.

Spring requires a rapid response as winter gives way to thaw. Cover crops should be established right away to hold bare soil before heavy precipitation. Walk your terraces for signs of frost injury and fix the weak spots. I always walk my drainage systems too. Where meltwater has flowed is a clue to areas that need immediate attention for erosion.

Before storms arrive in summer, mulch refreshment is needed. Keep a protective depth of 3-4 inches to allow for cushioning of raindrop impact. Check runoff paths at least once a week and add rocks to any area where water concentrates. In damaged areas, replant using fast-growing grasses. Limit soil disturbance during droughts when wind risks are greater.

Autumn prepares your landscape for the upcoming winter. Plant trees six weeks before the first frost to promote root development. Rake leaves for organic mulch. Deploy rain barrels to collect the fall precipitation. Winter rye is a viable fall grass seeding that survives severe cold, and its winter anchoring of the soil is accepted to develop some of the soil ecology you have been working on all year.

Winter defense protects against frost damage. Store coconut mat in locations like slopes before snow. Walking on frozen ground causes cracks. Plan spring projects based on aerial surveys once the snow has melted. Remove snow from drains to prevent ice dams and record which melts first for future repairs.

Deep-rooted plants provide the most effective soil anchoring to prevent erosion. Creeping juniper creates dense fibrous mats over 3 feet deep. Fir trees prod taproots deeper than 10 feet, locking down the subsoil. I like to select these on steep slopes because their roots secure the soil, acting as nature's rebar to limit soil displacement.

Native species become perfectly suited to local conditions. Eastern redbud will do well in compacted urban clay. Mondo grass can take some drought once established. Always select plants that are suited to your soil and climate. They require less care and offer better erosion control than non-native introductions.

Slopes require specific stabilizers. Cotoneaster shrubs spread woody roots across slopes to catch soil. Pine trees protect steep slopes with acidic needles that slow runoff. For critical banks, use coconut matting until roots take.

Root architecture controls erosion mitigation. Fibrous systems, such as those found in Japanese spurge, generate surface nets that hold loose soil in place. Deep-rooted plants, such as azaleas, create underground barriers against soil erosion. To increase soil retention, select plants that align with your specific erosion category.

Finish easy wins like native grasses and groundcovers. They will quickly establish roots that extend 2 to 3 feet deep. If you plant these yourself, it doesn't cost much. On steep slopes with a slope angle of less than 30 degrees, add rock borders. This combination will eliminate 80% of erosion for less than $100 in materials.

Consider shrubs and trees for tough spots. Cotoneaster holds onto slopes with inclines exceeding 25 degrees. Professional terracing is expensive, but it will handle extreme grades. I spent $3,000 on my own drainage and hired experts to handle the steepest areas. Their fix will last for decades.

The use of cover crops can reduce erosion by 31-100%. Between seasons, plant clover. Use contour farming on 2-6% slopes to create natural ridges. These practices cost pennies per square foot. Avoid using machinery when the soil is wet to prevent 70% compaction damage without incurring any additional costs.

Make a finished product, soil food. Compost amendments increase water retention by 40%. Use fallen leaves for mulch. These natural solutions are free (other than labor), and they warm the soil for winter while feeding the earthworms that burrow through compacted layers.

Erosion control is truly the perfect combination of vegetation and engineering. Vegetation establishes living roots to bind soil. Engineering structures, such as terraces, can facilitate positive water movement and contribute to longevity. So far, I have witnessed several properties transition from struggling to thriving when the owners utilize both vegetation and engineering. It is more effective combined than either one alone.

Take action now to save money and land. Immediate fixes are always cheaper than replacing lost soil. If you don't address erosion, you'll pay to fix it later. My neighbor spent $5,000 to repair his driveway, which washed out when some water started to erode a small rut. We can see how fast it spiraled out of control. Taking early action saves you from losing something.

It is important to conduct seasonal maintenance to ensure that the defenses remain effective. Spring inspections reveal damage from winter. Summer mulch replacements rejuvenate the property against storms. Fall preparations withstand cold weather. Each season provides an opportunity to complete seasonal assignments. To achieve consistent results, commitment and discipline can keep small problems from becoming large disasters.

You do have the ability to restore static earth. Begin with one of your slopes/land. Follow these tried-and-true processes purposefully and patiently. Your land will regenerate and become stronger. I have seen barren hillsides regenerate. Your determination will convert compromised soil to stable earth.